Thanks for the reply, I would think that after sanding the strips will
end up between 1/4 and 3/16" also the epoxy I used is a little
flexible, so maybe I'm gonna have to do it the hard way. Damn.
On Sun, 4 Feb 2007 17:51:26 -0500, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:
>How thick are your strips? The key to this method is that the strips should
>be thin, so that the adhesive they're stuck down with can overcome the
>wood's urge to move with changes in moisture content. My read is that if
>you strips are 3/16" or less, the adhesive wins and the seams won't expand &
>contract much and the bond breaker is unnecessary. I recommend the Teak
>Decking Systems STS-440 goo. It's a silicone and pretty elastic.
>
>"pete" wrote in message
>
>> Can anyone tell me if it is necesary to use the bond breaking tape
>> between slats? The 6mm (square edge, not rebated) strips have been
>> laid onto a ply deck using epoxy with 5mm spacers. The problem for me
>> is that my suppliers don't sell the stuff (ok I can get around that)
>> but there is loads of squeezed out epoxy left in the bottom of the
>> groove, so to get the tape flat is going to be a nightmare. I know
>> it's necessary if you're using rebated strips, but will the Sika
>> caulking really stick to the epoxy enough to cause a problem? I seem
>> to get conflicting replies, even from the professionals.
>>
>> Cheers Pete
> >> Stay informed about: Caulking a teak strip deck 
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