Fuel tank baffle question

Keith wrote:
> Usually they go from the bottom almost to the top, to within a couple
> of inches or so. The bottom has the corners cut out to allow the fuel
> to flow back and forth. The trick is figuring out where they are.
> Hopefully you can see some weld marks or something to tell you where
> they're at.

Take a look at

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/P1010166.jpg

I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene,
formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. The baffels are floor to
cieling, and corners cut at bottom, with 2" holes in the 200 gal tanks.
No 2" holes in the 100 gal tanks. 3 baffels in the 200 gal, and 2 in
the 100 gal. As Keith says look for weldmarks, or take a clothsehanger,
and probe around. I bet you end up cleaning out the tank, so make the
goles big enough to do the dirty deed.

Den 48yf EAGLE
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

Most times fuel tanks are removed from vehicle and pressure washed there is
no need to cut extra access holes.

Sal

"Jim and Becky" <Jimjamie.DeleteThis@Adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:sKmdnUy1spagkdXYnZ2dnUVZ_qidnZ2d@adelphia.com...
> I'm thinking about cutting a 5 inch diameter hole in my aluminum diesel
> tank
> so I can get in there and scrub them front to back.
> I suddenly realize there are baffles in there.
> Does anyone know what the baffles look like?
> Do they go from top to bottom or just part way up?
>
> I wouldn't bother with this but I need to cut a hole for a fuel sender, so
> I
> thought I'd make the hole big enough to get my arm in.
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

Really? Well come on over and yank out my two 350 gallon tanks and
clean them up for me. I'll give you $100. Of course that covers
removing and reinstalling the engine, bulkheads, wiring, plumbing,
water heater, accumulator tank, FW pump, etc. etc.. etc. Oh yea, and
you're going to have to pump out and store the 400 gallons of diesel
that's in there now.

On Nov 2, 7:13 am, "sal" <s....RemoveThis@mts.net> wrote:
> Most times fuel tanks are removed from vehicle and pressure washed there is
> no need to cut extra access holes.
>
> Sal
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

Keith wrote:
> Really? Well come on over and yank out my two 350 gallon tanks and
> clean them up for me. I'll give you $100. Of course that covers
> removing and reinstalling the engine, bulkheads, wiring, plumbing,
> water heater, accumulator tank, FW pump, etc. etc.. etc. Oh yea, and
> you're going to have to pump out and store the 400 gallons of diesel
> that's in there now.
WOW Keith :
I did the 2 200 gallons one at a time, transferring fuel back, and
forth from tank to tank. Took a LOT of time, and fouled 2 transfer
pumps in the process. Used 4 5micron filters to clean during transfer.
Had to rip out the entire floor to do this. (easir than removing the
engines, and if i did i figgered i couldn't get them out anyway!)
engines 6ft long, tanks 8ft long. Wish I had found a $100 guy! How
old are your tanks, we might want to check it out if they have been a
diesel breeding ground for several years. Boatshot, and Tank shots at:
http://densnet.tripod.com/photos/index.album?i=1&s=1
and
http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/
The muck in the before pic started 25 years ago.

Den den at densnet dot com
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

I'd like to know your plan with the Neoprene, Formagasket and aluminum.
You're going to layer them somehow I take it.
I know the Formagasket will stay soft in case you want to remove them.

> I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene,
> formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws. The baffels are floor to
> cieling, and corners cut at bottom, with 2" holes in the 200 gal tanks.
> No 2" holes in the 100 gal tanks. 3 baffels in the 200 gal, and 2 in
> the 100 gal. As Keith says look for weldmarks, or take a clothsehanger,
> and probe around. I bet you end up cleaning out the tank, so make the
> goles big enough to do the dirty deed.
>
> Den 48yf EAGLE
>
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

Jim and Becky wrote:
> I'd like to know your plan with the Neoprene, Formagasket and aluminum.
> You're going to layer them somehow I take it.
> I know the Formagasket will stay soft in case you want to remove them.
>
> > I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene,
> > formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws.
Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at
least 4 to a side equally spaced.
Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the
bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the
holes are not uniform.
Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so
soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap.
Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a
clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter.
Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching
holes. and punch.
Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide.
Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt
hole, and lay on the port cover.
Step6: Tighten all screws.
OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the
idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap
mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket.
Hope this helps.
http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/
> > Den 48yf EAGLE
> >
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

Last question and I'll leave you alone:
Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine
manifold gasket material.

> > > I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of Neoprene,
> > > formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws.
> Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at
> least 4 to a side equally spaced.
> Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the
> bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the
> holes are not uniform.
> Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so
> soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap.
> Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a
> clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter.
> Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching
> holes. and punch.
> Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide.
> Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt
> hole, and lay on the port cover.
> Step6: Tighten all screws.
> OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the
> idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap
> mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket.
> Hope this helps.
> http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/
> > > Den 48yf EAGLE
> > >
>
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

Jim and Becky wrote:
> Last question and I'll leave you alone:
> Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine
> manifold gasket material.
Hey No problem.. I wish i had someone to clue me in on what I am doing.
I got it at a hardware store in LA. Ca. No HD or Lowes a real one.
Don't know where you are, but. i can git the address for you. OOPS my
battery is going away, so will continue this tomorrow. sorry
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

den wrote:
> Jim and Becky wrote:
> > Last question and I'll leave you alone:
> > Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine
> > manifold gasket material.
> Hey No problem..
Here was my source for 1/8 inch thick.
Shamrock Supply Co. LA 1 800 624 3814 Orange 1 800 341 5563
www.shamrocksupply.com The website is not too useful as an ordering
site.
Den
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

Try http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm and search for "raw materials,
rubber materials, sheet materials, neoprene" and pick a thickness and size

These guys aren't the cheapest, but they want to be your toolroom so they're
used to small quantities and deliver instantly, at least here in Southern
Indiana.

Roger
derbyrm DeleteThis @NOSPAMinsightbbNOSPAM.com
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
"Jim and Becky" <Jimjamie DeleteThis @Adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:7qOdnfrUk9uUSdDYnZ2dnUVZ_oydnZ2d@adelphia.com...
> Last question and I'll leave you alone:
> Where do I find sheets of neoprene as I was thinking of using engine
> manifold gasket material.
>
>> > > I cut 8" square access ports to be sealed with 12" sheets of
>> > > Neoprene,
>> > > formagasket, aluminum sheets, and 8x32 screws.
>> Step1: Drill bolt holes in the 1ft square aluminum port covers. at
>> least 4 to a side equally spaced.
>> Step2: Center the port cover over the cutout, and center punch thru the
>> bolt holes for the tap drill. Mark a corner for reference, in case the
>> holes are not uniform.
>> Step3: Tapdrill, and tap. Note tapping aluminum sucks because it is so
>> soft the tap plugs up. BACKUP several times, and clean tap.
>> Step3: Clean all the shavings with a vacuum. (I am assuming you have a
>> clean dry tank here) Don't want them to look for your filter.
>> Step4: Lay the port cover over the neoprene, and mark for punching
>> holes. and punch.
>> Step5: Spread the formagasket around the port, 2" or more wide.
>> Step6: Lay neoprene over cutout, spread a 1/4" bead around each bolt
>> hole, and lay on the port cover.
>> Step6: Tighten all screws.
>> OOPS i forgot. The start of this was the fuel guage sender. You get the
>> idea. I would cut a hole in the port cover for it, and drill and tap
>> mounting holes. Of course do this before messing with formagasket.
>> Hope this helps.
>> http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k274/densnet/
>> > > Den 48yf EAGLE
>> > >
>>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question 

I thought I had posted this earlier, but it didn't show up. Here is a
good access plate system that I used on the side of my tank.
http://www.seabuilt.com/
Cut holes in each baffled area, cleaned out, then lined the inside of
the tank with aviation fuel tank sealer. Cures up flexible, will seal
any small leaks, works very well. Just lots of work.
 >> Stay informed about: Fuel tank baffle question