High Moisture Readings / Old Boat

"Moisture Readings" can be very confusing. First, such meters only
measure the 'surface moisture'. Second these 'meters' are rarely
calibrated. Third, an instrument is only as good as the operator who
uses it.

Virtually ALL plastics are permeable/porous in nature so if a hull were
ever i n the water it would naturally have 'moisture'. That the hull
shows NO evidence of blistering means that the laminate structure is
intact, doesnt have a degradation by 'hydrolysis' - a decomposition of
the stryene 'binder', etc. At over 18 years of age it would be VERY
doutful that this hull would form 'blisters' in the future.
Blistering primarily occurst in the matting layer between the gelcoat
and the structural roving/cloth layers .... and is a cosmetic layer.
Bilistering usually forms when the original layup doesnt have
sufficient resin, leaves teeny air/gas spaces along the glass fibers
into which moiisture can permeate.

With zero blisters now or in the past, you probably have a VERY good
hull that would not blister in the future ..... but no guarantee as
sometimes when you move a blisterless boat from salt water to fresh
water blister sometimes become evident.

Usually blisters are hype and unless the blistering is deep down into
the structural part of the laminate there will be NO problem. Beware
of DIY blister repair as this usually makes the hull VERY vulnerable to
further significant blistering .... sometimes to the extent that a hull
is beyond repair. Proper blister repair is to usually entirely remove
the degraded (matting) layer (peeling/cutting .... not grinding nor
sandblasting, etc.) and rebuild with a resin-rich layer to prevent
future water permeation.

NO visible blisters or just a few here and there on an old boat ......
a good one!



In article <1111333838.399894.273960.TakeThisOut@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
Izmack <izmack.TakeThisOut@earthlink.net> wrote:

 > Hi Everyone,
 >
 > We are looking at at late 80's Trojan F32 with very high moisture
 > readings in the hull, but zero signs of blistering either currently or
 > in the past. Our surveyor, who was VERY thorough, said the following:
 >
 > "Bottom was found in above average condition, having no signs of
 > blistering,crazing or delamination. High moisture levels were noted,
 > ranging between 80-100 and some crusty deposits were noted, indicating
 > laminate hydrolysis. Recommendation to dry store vessel each winter off
 > season to maintain current good condition. If vessel is left overboard,
 > some blistering or delamination could be expected over time."
 >
 > I know I'm asking for a barrage of opinions, but, considering it's a 16
 > year old boat and the fact we are first time boat buyers and that the
 > rest of the survey was above average, what do you all think? And -
 > will future buyers balk at resale?
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

On 20 Mar 2005 07:50:38 -0800, "Izmack" <izmack.TakeThisOut@earthlink.net> wrote:

 >Hi Everyone,
 >
 >We are looking at at late 80's Trojan F32 with very high moisture
 >readings in the hull, but zero signs of blistering either currently or
 >in the past. Our surveyor, who was VERY thorough, said the following:
 >
 >"Bottom was found in above average condition, having no signs of
 >blistering,crazing or delamination. High moisture levels were noted,
 >ranging between 80-100 and some crusty deposits were noted, indicating
 >laminate hydrolysis. Recommendation to dry store vessel each winter off
 >season to maintain current good condition. If vessel is left overboard,
 >some blistering or delamination could be expected over time."
 >
 >I know I'm asking for a barrage of opinions, but, considering it's a 16
 >year old boat and the fact we are first time boat buyers and that the
 >rest of the survey was above average, what do you all think? And -
 >will future buyers balk at resale?

Here is an online resource for you on laminate hydrolysis.

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.zahnisers.com/repair/blister/blister1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.zahnisers.com/repair/blister/blister1.htm</a>

Did the surveyor mention how extensive the moisture was? Was it
specifically located or an overall condition? What is the rating of
the moisture - 80 to 100% or was that a measuring scale and what
percentage would that reading indicate? Some moisture readers work
on a readable scale - some display direct moisture percentage.

If it's only a local condition at one or two points in the hull, then
I wouldn't worry about it - for a 16 year old boat, that's not bad at
all.

If it's an overall condition in the hull, then I wouldn't buy it -
something has gone wrong with the gel coat and the hull is
compromised. You could be looking at future problems which could make
it more expensive than you bargained for.

You may not have blisters now, but the it's likely that you will have
them in the future.

Later,

Tom<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

Don White wrote:

 > I haven't tested it since, but if i could get ahold of a meter, I'd love to
 > see how it rates after sitting covered all winter.

what's stopping you?

<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.electrophysics.on.ca" target="_blank">www.electrophysics.on.ca</a>

look under fibreglass boats, there's a model you can order from Kentucky<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

Thanks - I'd seen that article. Actually, the surveyor who did the work
works very near Zahniser's and is condidered an expert with this. I believe
him when he says it's not an issue, but my concern is - will the next buyer,
or will we end up taking a hit on cost or, worse, have no offers at all?

It was 80-100 points generalized across the hull, measured on a Tramex
meter.



"Short Wave Sportfishing" <emaildisguised DeleteThis @askme.com> wrote in message
news:lfdr319jhvs35vpbjsr77med36vm4eb07i@4ax.com...
 > On 20 Mar 2005 07:50:38 -0800, "Izmack" <izmack DeleteThis @earthlink.net> wrote:
 >
  > >Hi Everyone,
  > >
  > >We are looking at at late 80's Trojan F32 with very high moisture
  > >readings in the hull, but zero signs of blistering either currently or
  > >in the past. Our surveyor, who was VERY thorough, said the following:
  > >
  > >"Bottom was found in above average condition, having no signs of
  > >blistering,crazing or delamination. High moisture levels were noted,
  > >ranging between 80-100 and some crusty deposits were noted, indicating
  > >laminate hydrolysis. Recommendation to dry store vessel each winter off
  > >season to maintain current good condition. If vessel is left overboard,
  > >some blistering or delamination could be expected over time."
  > >
  > >I know I'm asking for a barrage of opinions, but, considering it's a 16
  > >year old boat and the fact we are first time boat buyers and that the
  > >rest of the survey was above average, what do you all think? And -
  > >will future buyers balk at resale?
 >
 > Here is an online resource for you on laminate hydrolysis.
 >
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.zahnisers.com/repair/blister/blister1.htm</font" target="_blank">http://www.zahnisers.com/repair/blister/blister1.htm</font</a>>
 >
 > Did the surveyor mention how extensive the moisture was? Was it
 > specifically located or an overall condition? What is the rating of
 > the moisture - 80 to 100% or was that a measuring scale and what
 > percentage would that reading indicate? Some moisture readers work
 > on a readable scale - some display direct moisture percentage.
 >
 > If it's only a local condition at one or two points in the hull, then
 > I wouldn't worry about it - for a 16 year old boat, that's not bad at
 > all.
 >
 > If it's an overall condition in the hull, then I wouldn't buy it -
 > something has gone wrong with the gel coat and the hull is
 > compromised. You could be looking at future problems which could make
 > it more expensive than you bargained for.
 >
 > You may not have blisters now, but the it's likely that you will have
 > them in the future.
 >
 > Later,
 >
 > Tom<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

Izmack wrote:
 > Hi Everyone,
 >
 > We are looking at at late 80's Trojan F32 with very high moisture
 > readings in the hull, but zero signs of blistering either currently or
 > in the past. Our surveyor, who was VERY thorough, said the following:
 >
 > "Bottom was found in above average condition, having no signs of
 > blistering,crazing or delamination. High moisture levels were noted,
 > ranging between 80-100 and some crusty deposits were noted, indicating
 > laminate hydrolysis. Recommendation to dry store vessel each winter off
 > season to maintain current good condition. If vessel is left overboard,
 > some blistering or delamination could be expected over time."
 >
 > I know I'm asking for a barrage of opinions, but, considering it's a 16
 > year old boat and the fact we are first time boat buyers and that the
 > rest of the survey was above average, what do you all think? And -
 > will future buyers balk at resale?
 >

You need to better understand moisture meters and readings.

Moisture meters have to be calibrated very carefully.

For example they are used extensively in determining the amount of
moisture in lumber when it is being or has been cut or kiln dried. In
order to make that determination the user first sets the calibration of
the meter against a known standard. In other words, using a piece of
identical lumber of a specific known moisture content that is kept in a
controlled environment.

In the case of a boat, that is not easily accomplished. In fact is
impossible. You don't have a standard upon which to calibrate the
meter. Bottom line, the actual NUMBER read is completely meaningless. I
repeat, it is MEANINGLESS.

The ONLY results that are really valid when metering a boat relate to
the differences in level found at different points on the hull. A
reading like 80-100 is truly meaningless in a non-calibrated environment.

What DOES hold meaning is if your meter reads a level like 80 everywhere
EXCEPT around a through hull or some other fitting where it reads
substantially higher. That might indicate a problem in the hull where
the through hull is bedded. BUT it might also indicate that the glass
surrounding the through hull is thicker (more dense which reads higher)
for increased strength.

You should also do readings with a meter on the deck, in areas where the
deck is not penetrated (middle of the deck for example) and then around
various fittings like cleats, hatches, winches, etc. Assuming that the
deck is cored with a water permeable material (some are, some aren't), a
higher reading relative to a non-pentrated spot might indicate moisture
in the core. It doesn't mean there is moisture for sure...it means
further investigation is appropriate.

Moisture meters readings of hulls and decks are completely subjective in
nature. The only really useful thing they offer is an indication of
possible problem areas where readings are substantially higher than
other areas.

Even then, further investigation often proves a valid reason for the reason.

Just to give you an examle of what I mean by calibrating a meter: I can
place my meter on my saloon table and adjust the calibration so that it
reads anywhere from 0 to about 200. So if I set it to 200, does that
mean that my saloon table is completely full of water? No it doesn't, it
means that I set it to 200....nothing more.

Believe it or not, MANY surveyors frequently have no clue that this is
the case.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 19:45:15 GMT, "Geri"
<izmack<delete>@earthlink.net> wrote:

 >Thanks - I'd seen that article. Actually, the surveyor who did the work
 >works very near Zahniser's and is condidered an expert with this. I believe
 >him when he says it's not an issue, but my concern is - will the next buyer,
 >or will we end up taking a hit on cost or, worse, have no offers at all?

Well, that is my point. It may not be of concern at the moment, but
down the road, it could be significant.

The problem is that it's a maybe - maybe it will, maybe it won't. I'm
sure your surveyor is a good one, but I'm suggesting that nobody can
see the future expert or not and with that high a reading, it's
suspicious.

If it's too good a deal to pass on, compared to other boats or similar
boats, then, no - it's not a problem because you should be able to
recover most of the cost.

If it's above average on cost for what ever reason (accommodations,
equipment, engines, etc), then I'd say no.

 >It was 80-100 points generalized across the hull, measured on a Tramex
 >meter.

I'm familiar with them. It's a good meter.

Later,

Tom<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

"Marley" <none DeleteThis @NOSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:Ial%d.911$nK.166994@news20.bellglobal.com...
 >
 > Believe it or not, MANY surveyors frequently have no clue that this is
 > the case.


At a seminarduring our local boat show, the speaker, who is president of an
international surveyors association, said the moisture meter is probably the
last thing he uses during a survey.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

\
This advice is completely wrong and completely backwards.

 > Did the surveyor mention how extensive the moisture was? Was it
 > specifically located or an overall condition? What is the rating of
 > the moisture - 80 to 100% or was that a measuring scale and what
 > percentage would that reading indicate? Some moisture readers work
 > on a readable scale - some display direct moisture percentage.

Without calibration (which is IMPOSSIBLE) the "value" read is
completely, utterly meaningless. If you just stop and think about it,
you can not come to any other logical conclusion.

 >
 > If it's only a local condition at one or two points in the hull, then
 > I wouldn't worry about it - for a 16 year old boat, that's not bad at
 > all.


100% incorrect. Bad advice.

If the readings are consistent all over the hull, it's not a bad thing.
If specific areas show higher readings those areas require further
investigation. Period.

 > If it's an overall condition in the hull, then I wouldn't buy it -
 > something has gone wrong with the gel coat and the hull is
 > compromised. You could be looking at future problems which could make
 > it more expensive than you bargained for.
 >

A reading that is meaningless but consistent through out the entire hull
is a GOD think. Its VARIANCES that suggest that there might be something
going on.

 > You may not have blisters now, but the it's likely that you will have
 > them in the future.

Rubbish.

Moisture readings are one and only one tool in the arsenal. If high
readings are found in specific areas, the first thing to do is figure
out why. Frequently there is a simple, logical reason that has nothing
to do with moisture in the hull.

Just to make it really clear, perhaps you didn't know that Moisture
meters don't measure moisture. They measure DENSITY and density
increases with moisture content. It also increases where the hull is
thicker, and where bulkheads meet the hull, and for a hundred other
reasons.

Old wives tales can be very costly.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 15:36:54 -0500, Marley <none.DeleteThis@NOSPAM.com> wrote:

 >Izmack wrote:
  >> Hi Everyone,
  >>
  >> We are looking at at late 80's Trojan F32 with very high moisture
  >> readings in the hull, but zero signs of blistering either currently or
  >> in the past. Our surveyor, who was VERY thorough, said the following:
  >>
  >> "Bottom was found in above average condition, having no signs of
  >> blistering,crazing or delamination. High moisture levels were noted,
  >> ranging between 80-100 and some crusty deposits were noted, indicating
  >> laminate hydrolysis. Recommendation to dry store vessel each winter off
  >> season to maintain current good condition. If vessel is left overboard,
  >> some blistering or delamination could be expected over time."
  >>
  >> I know I'm asking for a barrage of opinions, but, considering it's a 16
  >> year old boat and the fact we are first time boat buyers and that the
  >> rest of the survey was above average, what do you all think? And -
  >> will future buyers balk at resale?
  >>
 >
 >You need to better understand moisture meters and readings.
 >
 >Moisture meters have to be calibrated very carefully.
 >
 >For example they are used extensively in determining the amount of
 >moisture in lumber when it is being or has been cut or kiln dried. In
 >order to make that determination the user first sets the calibration of
 >the meter against a known standard. In other words, using a piece of
 >identical lumber of a specific known moisture content that is kept in a
 >controlled environment.
 >
 >In the case of a boat, that is not easily accomplished. In fact is
 >impossible. You don't have a standard upon which to calibrate the
 >meter. Bottom line, the actual NUMBER read is completely meaningless. I
 >repeat, it is MEANINGLESS.

~~ snippage happens ~~

The fact is that you can't calibrate a meter if you don't know were
zero is. I can only conceive of one way that a meter measure would be
invalid and that is if zero wasn't zero - as in your illustration.
Why somebody would use a meter that wasn't zero is beyond me.

Your wood sampling example is not calibration, but comparative
measurement. You have a zero meter, you measure the standard, then
measure the test piece and make the evaluation. You just can't walk
up to the standard and test it without having a baseline - which is
zero.

For straight measurement, it is most certainly accurate and it's done
all the time to determine set times for aggregate mixes, core moisture
in building roofs, materials density and many other types of
structural conditions. You walk in with a zero meter, take your
measurement and make your recommendation. What you are measuring, by
what ever method from doppler to resistance, zero has to be zero for
any measurement to be valid.

It is most certainly not meaningless.

Later,

Tom<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 21:10:48 GMT, "Don White"
<white.RemoveThis@nsknospm.sympatico.ca> wrote:

 >
 >"Marley" <none.RemoveThis@NOSPAM.com> wrote in message
 >news:Ial%d.911$nK.166994@news20.bellglobal.com...
  >>
  >> Believe it or not, MANY surveyors frequently have no clue that this is
  >> the case.
 >
 >At a seminarduring our local boat show, the speaker, who is president of an
 >international surveyors association, said the moisture meter is probably the
 >last thing he uses during a survey.

Interesting. Did he say why?

Just out of plain old curiosity, what group was he with?

Later,

Tom<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

I knew I'd be opening a can o' worms!

The Tramex reading he go on the cockpit was virtually zero, to give an idea
of calibration. The foredeck was a spotty 60-100, but Trojans have always
been weak in this area. All soundings were good (including the hull),
except for two small foredeck spots w/ compromised soundings.



"Marley" <none DeleteThis @NOSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:Ial%d.911$nK.166994@news20.bellglobal.com...
 > Izmack wrote:
  > > Hi Everyone,
  > >
  > > We are looking at at late 80's Trojan F32 with very high moisture
  > > readings in the hull, but zero signs of blistering either currently or
  > > in the past. Our surveyor, who was VERY thorough, said the following:
  > >
  > > "Bottom was found in above average condition, having no signs of
  > > blistering,crazing or delamination. High moisture levels were noted,
  > > ranging between 80-100 and some crusty deposits were noted, indicating
  > > laminate hydrolysis. Recommendation to dry store vessel each winter off
  > > season to maintain current good condition. If vessel is left overboard,
  > > some blistering or delamination could be expected over time."
  > >
  > > I know I'm asking for a barrage of opinions, but, considering it's a 16
  > > year old boat and the fact we are first time boat buyers and that the
  > > rest of the survey was above average, what do you all think? And -
  > > will future buyers balk at resale?
  > >
 >
 > You need to better understand moisture meters and readings.
 >
 > Moisture meters have to be calibrated very carefully.
 >
 > For example they are used extensively in determining the amount of
 > moisture in lumber when it is being or has been cut or kiln dried. In
 > order to make that determination the user first sets the calibration of
 > the meter against a known standard. In other words, using a piece of
 > identical lumber of a specific known moisture content that is kept in a
 > controlled environment.
 >
 > In the case of a boat, that is not easily accomplished. In fact is
 > impossible. You don't have a standard upon which to calibrate the
 > meter. Bottom line, the actual NUMBER read is completely meaningless. I
 > repeat, it is MEANINGLESS.
 >
 > The ONLY results that are really valid when metering a boat relate to
 > the differences in level found at different points on the hull. A
 > reading like 80-100 is truly meaningless in a non-calibrated environment.
 >
 > What DOES hold meaning is if your meter reads a level like 80 everywhere
 > EXCEPT around a through hull or some other fitting where it reads
 > substantially higher. That might indicate a problem in the hull where
 > the through hull is bedded. BUT it might also indicate that the glass
 > surrounding the through hull is thicker (more dense which reads higher)
 > for increased strength.
 >
 > You should also do readings with a meter on the deck, in areas where the
 > deck is not penetrated (middle of the deck for example) and then around
 > various fittings like cleats, hatches, winches, etc. Assuming that the
 > deck is cored with a water permeable material (some are, some aren't), a
 > higher reading relative to a non-pentrated spot might indicate moisture
 > in the core. It doesn't mean there is moisture for sure...it means
 > further investigation is appropriate.
 >
 > Moisture meters readings of hulls and decks are completely subjective in
 > nature. The only really useful thing they offer is an indication of
 > possible problem areas where readings are substantially higher than
 > other areas.
 >
 > Even then, further investigation often proves a valid reason for the
reason.
 >
 > Just to give you an examle of what I mean by calibrating a meter: I can
 > place my meter on my saloon table and adjust the calibration so that it
 > reads anywhere from 0 to about 200. So if I set it to 200, does that
 > mean that my saloon table is completely full of water? No it doesn't, it
 > means that I set it to 200....nothing more.
 >
 > Believe it or not, MANY surveyors frequently have no clue that this is
 > the case.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:

 > On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 15:36:54 -0500, Marley <none.TakeThisOut@NOSPAM.com> wrote:
 >
 >
  >>Izmack wrote:
  >>
   >>>Hi Everyone,
   >>>
   >>>We are looking at at late 80's Trojan F32 with very high moisture
   >>>readings in the hull, but zero signs of blistering either currently or
   >>>in the past. Our surveyor, who was VERY thorough, said the following:
   >>>
   >>>"Bottom was found in above average condition, having no signs of
   >>>blistering,crazing or delamination. High moisture levels were noted,
   >>>ranging between 80-100 and some crusty deposits were noted, indicating
   >>>laminate hydrolysis. Recommendation to dry store vessel each winter off
   >>>season to maintain current good condition. If vessel is left overboard,
   >>>some blistering or delamination could be expected over time."
   >>>
   >>>I know I'm asking for a barrage of opinions, but, considering it's a 16
   >>>year old boat and the fact we are first time boat buyers and that the
   >>>rest of the survey was above average, what do you all think? And -
   >>>will future buyers balk at resale?
   >>>
  >>
  >>You need to better understand moisture meters and readings.
  >>
  >>Moisture meters have to be calibrated very carefully.
  >>
  >>For example they are used extensively in determining the amount of
  >>moisture in lumber when it is being or has been cut or kiln dried. In
  >>order to make that determination the user first sets the calibration of
  >>the meter against a known standard. In other words, using a piece of
  >>identical lumber of a specific known moisture content that is kept in a
  >>controlled environment.
  >>
  >>In the case of a boat, that is not easily accomplished. In fact is
  >>impossible. You don't have a standard upon which to calibrate the
  >>meter. Bottom line, the actual NUMBER read is completely meaningless. I
  >>repeat, it is MEANINGLESS.
 >
 >
 > ~~ snippage happens ~~
 >
 > The fact is that you can't calibrate a meter if you don't know were
 > zero is. I can only conceive of one way that a meter measure would be
 > invalid and that is if zero wasn't zero - as in your illustration.
 > Why somebody would use a meter that wasn't zero is beyond me.
 >
 > Your wood sampling example is not calibration, but comparative
 > measurement. You have a zero meter, you measure the standard, then
 > measure the test piece and make the evaluation. You just can't walk
 > up to the standard and test it without having a baseline - which is
 > zero.
 >
 > For straight measurement, it is most certainly accurate and it's done
 > all the time to determine set times for aggregate mixes, core moisture
 > in building roofs, materials density and many other types of
 > structural conditions. You walk in with a zero meter, take your
 > measurement and make your recommendation. What you are measuring, by
 > what ever method from doppler to resistance, zero has to be zero for
 > any measurement to be valid.
 >
 > It is most certainly not meaningless.
 >
 > Later,
 >
 > Tom

Tom

You're confused. I'll try my best to help but you can believe whatever
you want in the end. I have a feeling I am wasting my time but I'll
try...JUST ONCE in good faith.

Moisture meters that are non-invasive do not measure moisture, they
measure DENSITY. THAT fact is the most important thing you need to
understand in respect to moisture meters.

They use a form of echo sounding that gives a general indication of
density. Two small (often coin sized) disks on the meter. One sends, one
receives. If you think otherwise, please provide a scientific
explanation as to how those two coins can measure "moisture". Fact is,
they can't.

Different materials are different densities. The only thing you can
measure is the density of a specific material and the only thing that
gives you is it's density relative to another substance or location.

Setting a density meter to zero (presumably by holding it up in the
air?) doen't calibrate it. In fact, moisture meters always read close to
zero when held in the air, even if you fiddle with the calibration knob.
Try it yourself sometime.

In fact, if ZERO is the only thing that matters, why even put a
calibration knob on the meter? Why not just calibrate it to zero at the
factory and leave it that way? Think about that.

Setting it to zero by applying it to the hull sets it to zero in
reference to the hull density. Hence, further measurements measure the
density of the hull relative to the location where you set it to zero.

I hope you'll take the time to reflect upon this in a logical manner.
If not, well... at least I tried. Last post on the subject from me though.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: High Moisture Readings / Old Boat 

Geri <izmack wrote:

 > I knew I'd be opening a can o' worms!
 >
 > The Tramex reading he go on the cockpit was virtually zero, to give an idea
 > of calibration. The foredeck was a spotty 60-100, but Trojans have always
 > been weak in this area. All soundings were good (including the hull),
 > except for two small foredeck spots w/ compromised soundings.
 >
 >

The foredeck may be cored, while the hull may be (and should be) solid
below the water line.

Therefore a comparison between the two is fairly meaningless since they
both differ in density.

In other words zero on the deck and higher in the hull means nothing
more than...the hull is more dense than the deck. And that is normally
the case.

Just think about a moisture meter as what it REALLY is... a density
meter. Just doing that one thing will allow you to apply logic and
reason to the results that they give.

I'm afraid I don't have time to debate the matter with those who are
uniformed but stubborn.

Hope this info helps!

Best of luck
M

P.S. - if you are wondering why I know htis it's because I am an
engineer and designed non-invasive "moisure meters" for a living some
years ago.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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