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Since: Oct 19, 2006 Posts: 28
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(Msg. 1) Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 4:00 pm
Post subject: Marine Plywood? Archived from groups: rec>boats>building (more info?)
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My Potter 15 rudder is made of 4 pieces. The top is a solid core about
10"x15", with two pieces of plywood screwed to it on either side measuring
10"x30". The solid blade mounts between the plywood, below the solid top.
One side of the plywood is falling apart, and the other side isn't doing
much better. I went to the lumber yard today to buy some plywood to replace
the bad parts. They have Marine Fir and Marine Okoume. They told me that
neither will be durable; they have to be covered with fiberglass. If that
is true, it certainly explains why the original is falling apart, as it is
not covered in fiberglass.
I bought a piece of fir, which I will cover with spar varnish just to get me
through the end of the year. This winter I will rebuild the whole thing.
(neither the top core nor the rudder blade are looking real good either).
What is the story on plywood? Is nothing suitable for marine use without
being fiberglassed? Would solid wood (3/8") substitute? Any advice on how
I go about doing this so it is durable would be appreciated. >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Sep 29, 2007 Posts: 28
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(Msg. 2) Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 4:00 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Toller wrote:
> My Potter 15 rudder is made of 4 pieces. The top is a solid core about
> 10"x15", with two pieces of plywood screwed to it on either side measuring
> 10"x30". The solid blade mounts between the plywood, below the solid top.
>
> One side of the plywood is falling apart, and the other side isn't doing
> much better. I went to the lumber yard today to buy some plywood to replace
> the bad parts. They have Marine Fir and Marine Okoume. They told me that
> neither will be durable; they have to be covered with fiberglass. If that
> is true, it certainly explains why the original is falling apart, as it is
> not covered in fiberglass.
>
> I bought a piece of fir, which I will cover with spar varnish just to get me
> through the end of the year. This winter I will rebuild the whole thing.
> (neither the top core nor the rudder blade are looking real good either).
>
> What is the story on plywood? Is nothing suitable for marine use without
> being fiberglassed? Would solid wood (3/8") substitute? Any advice on how
> I go about doing this so it is durable would be appreciated.
>
> Thinking about it, how about making the top core and one side out of one
> piece of solid wood, and then using a second piece of solid wood for the
> second side? I could partially resaw the core/side to remove most of the
> wood (where the rudder blade goes), and rout out the balance. That way it
> would all expand evenly, since it is all the same wood oriented the same,
> without any pesky plywood.
> Would it be strong enough?
Toller,
One should very much wonder about the individual that told you that
marine fir would not be durable enough.
The difference between the marine PW and others is 2-fold.
1- PW graded as marine has no voids in the core.
2- The bonding adhesive has very low water permeability (it used to be
better than exterior, but common exterior now usually uses the same process.
Time was all small boats that were not clinker plank (even some that
were) were made from marine plywood, and some are still out there.
I have made rudders and centerboards from marine PW.
Fiberglassing PW will just assure that it never has a chance to dry out
(Oh- sure it is completely encapsulated - with ZERO porosity or
permeability - Right - )
You can make PW cheek pieces and replace those on the rudder. What you
make them from is not of much consequence in actual fact.
The plan you outline in that last paragraph sounds like a whole lot of
work.
Matt Colie
Lifelong Waterman, Licensed Mariner, Congenital Sailor
and Third Generation Boatbuilder >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Oct 19, 2006 Posts: 28
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(Msg. 3) Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 5:11 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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> What is the story on plywood? Is nothing suitable for marine use without
> being fiberglassed? Would solid wood (3/8") substitute? Any advice on
> how I go about doing this so it is durable would be appreciated.
Thinking about it, how about making the top core and one side out of one
piece of solid wood, and then using a second piece of solid wood for the
second side? I could partially resaw the core/side to remove most of the
wood (where the rudder blade goes), and rout out the balance. That way it
would all expand evenly, since it is all the same wood oriented the same,
without any pesky plywood.
Would it be strong enough? >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Sep 02, 2007 Posts: 11
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(Msg. 4) Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 5:33 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Or, you could simply buy a replacement from West Wight...
http://www.westwightpotter.com/
...maybe even upgrade to their 'Kick Up Beaching Rudder'?
The issue with Douglas Fir plywood - marine or otherwise - is that is
'checks' - or cracks along the outer ply layer. Water can ingress
along these cracks, and the rot process begins.
The solution is to cover the plywood with fiberglass (stops the
checking) and epoxy resin (stops the water). The application of these
materials should be considered carefully, meaning that additional
research into 'fiberglass and epoxy plywood encapsulation' should be
undertaken before starting.
Note that any screw / bolt holes in or through the rudder / tiller are
an area of concern.
Common practice (for bolts) is to drill an oversize hole, fill with a
thickened epoxy slurry, allow to cure, then re-drill with the
appropriate sized hole. In this way, water never gets to the wood.
For screws, much the same except allow the crew to penetrate the wood
for about 1/2 its length, i.e. 'drill oversize' for 1/2 the length of
the screw.
Anyway... good luck!
MW >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Feb 15, 2007 Posts: 2
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(Msg. 5) Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:11 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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A few thoughts:
Ply, since it is laminated, is much more resistant to warping than solid
wood. It's also able to take impact and strain without splitting as solid
wood might. Provided you can keep the water out, it's a very stable
material.
Ply is, pound for pound, really strong. Good marine ply is void-free and
uses waterproof glues. I build stitch and glue kayaks, where the 4mm (3/16")
ply is encapsulated in epoxy resin - about 4 coats on each side. Our 'yaks
take a pounding on our rocky beaches, and I've yet to damage the ply itself.
Provided you epoxy seal both the inside and outside surfaces with multiple
coats of resin, or even fiberglass cloth soaked out with epoxy, making sure
you seal the end grain really well, there's no reason the ply won't outlast
any solid wood, and possibly you
:->))
Make sure you use epoxy, and not polyester resin - the poly doesn't stick to
things or hold them together
nearly as well.
BTW - that Potter is one sweet little craft - used to admire them greatly in
our sailing days, before we downsized and simplified things to kayaks and
canoes.
"Toller" <Toller.DeleteThis@Yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:SSdFi.15913$B25.6758@news01.roc.ny...
> My Potter 15 rudder is made of 4 pieces. The top is a solid core about
> 10"x15", with two pieces of plywood screwed to it on either side measuring
> 10"x30". The solid blade mounts between the plywood, below the solid top.
>
> One side of the plywood is falling apart, and the other side isn't doing
> much better. I went to the lumber yard today to buy some plywood to
> replace the bad parts. They have Marine Fir and Marine Okoume. They told
> me that neither will be durable; they have to be covered with fiberglass.
> If that is true, it certainly explains why the original is falling apart,
> as it is not covered in fiberglass.
>
> I bought a piece of fir, which I will cover with spar varnish just to get
> me through the end of the year. This winter I will rebuild the whole
> thing. (neither the top core nor the rudder blade are looking real good
> either).
>
> What is the story on plywood? Is nothing suitable for marine use without
> being fiberglassed? Would solid wood (3/8") substitute? Any advice on
> how I go about doing this so it is durable would be appreciated.
> >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Jul 03, 2007 Posts: 20
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(Msg. 6) Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:29 am
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Sep 10, 12:00 pm, "Toller" <Tol... DeleteThis @Yahoo.com> wrote:
> My Potter 15 rudder is made of 4 pieces. The top is a solid core about
> 10"x15", with two pieces of plywood screwed to it on either side measuring
> 10"x30". The solid blade mounts between the plywood, below the solid top.
Those side pieces are called the rudder cheeks. I've replaced mine on
a 21 foot mahogony strip saiboat. They get a lot of stress when
running before the wind with waves comming under the transom and
trying to change your course on you. I just used ordinary fir plywood
without any voids in it. It should be thick and stong. The thickness
might be determined by the hardware used to hang the rudder off the
transom (pintles and gudgeons) although you can rout the plywood to
accept narrow hardware.
>
> One side of the plywood is falling apart, and the other side isn't doing
> much better. I went to the lumber yard today to buy some plywood to replace
> the bad parts. They have Marine Fir and Marine Okoume. They told me that
> neither will be durable; they have to be covered with fiberglass. If that
> is true, it certainly explains why the original is falling apart, as it is
> not covered in fiberglass.
>
> I bought a piece of fir, which I will cover with spar varnish just to get me
> through the end of the year. This winter I will rebuild the whole thing.
> (neither the top core nor the rudder blade are looking real good either).
>
> What is the story on plywood? Is nothing suitable for marine use without
> being fiberglassed? Would solid wood (3/8") substitute? Any advice on how
> I go about doing this so it is durable would be appreciated. >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Oct 19, 2006 Posts: 28
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(Msg. 7) Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Wm Watt" <ag384fm.DeleteThis@fastmail.fm> wrote in message
news:1189607359.326888.220660@r34g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 10, 12:00 pm, "Toller" <Tol....DeleteThis@Yahoo.com> wrote:
>> My Potter 15 rudder is made of 4 pieces. The top is a solid core about
>> 10"x15", with two pieces of plywood screwed to it on either side
>> measuring
>> 10"x30". The solid blade mounts between the plywood, below the solid
>> top.
>
> Those side pieces are called the rudder cheeks. I've replaced mine on
> a 21 foot mahogony strip saiboat. They get a lot of stress when
> running before the wind with waves comming under the transom and
> trying to change your course on you. I just used ordinary fir plywood
> without any voids in it. It should be thick and stong. The thickness
> might be determined by the hardware used to hang the rudder off the
> transom (pintles and gudgeons) although you can rout the plywood to
> accept narrow hardware.
>
Rudder Cheeks eh? What is the piece between the cheeks called?
Mine are 3/8" ply, routed down to 3/16" at the hardware.
What did you put on them to waterproof them? >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Jul 03, 2007 Posts: 20
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(Msg. 8) Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:23 am
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Sep 12, 1:17 pm, "Toller" <Tol....RemoveThis@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> Rudder Cheeks eh? What is the piece between the cheeks called?
> Mine are 3/8" ply, routed down to 3/16" at the hardware.
>
> What did you put on them to waterproof them?-
Paint. For the edges anything you have handy will do. They are not
going to be under water. If I were doing it today I'd spread polyester
resin along the edges where it can soak in to keep moisture from
penetrating. Epoxy, polyurethane varnish, or even linseed oil if
that's what you have at hand.
I'd also smear polyester resin on any places which would chafe, for
example if the tiller is inserted between the cheeks (I don't know
what that's called), or the rudder rotates between the cheeks ("kick
up" rudder) . Polyester is good for abraision resistance. I use it on
my home built boats where parts might rub. I coated the inside of a
dagger board trunk with it. Just the resin, no fibreglass
reinforcement. Or epoxy if that's what you have. >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Oct 19, 2006 Posts: 28
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(Msg. 9) Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:08 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Wm Watt" <ag384fm RemoveThis @fastmail.fm> wrote in message
news:1189790627.515056.301730@o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 12, 1:17 pm, "Toller" <Tol... RemoveThis @Yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Rudder Cheeks eh? What is the piece between the cheeks called?
>> Mine are 3/8" ply, routed down to 3/16" at the hardware.
>>
>> What did you put on them to waterproof them?-
>
> Paint. For the edges anything you have handy will do. They are not
> going to be under water. If I were doing it today I'd spread polyester
> resin along the edges where it can soak in to keep moisture from
> penetrating. Epoxy, polyurethane varnish, or even linseed oil if
> that's what you have at hand.
>
> I'd also smear polyester resin on any places which would chafe, for
> example if the tiller is inserted between the cheeks (I don't know
> what that's called), or the rudder rotates between the cheeks ("kick
> up" rudder) . Polyester is good for abraision resistance. I use it on
> my home built boats where parts might rub. I coated the inside of a
> dagger board trunk with it. Just the resin, no fibreglass
> reinforcement. Or epoxy if that's what you have.
>
I have epoxy (and linseed oil and polyurethane varnish) but hesitate to use
it since it is not UV stable.
I have never used polyester, but have heard it doesn't adhear worth a damn.
That is not your experience I take it? >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Nov 21, 2007 Posts: 20
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(Msg. 10) Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 1:16 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Toller wrote:
> I have never used polyester, but have heard it doesn't adhear worth
> a damn. That is not your experience I take it?
A lot of things - including the 40' ply and fiberglass Newporter
ketch - were made with polyester resin. Does it stick as well as
epoxy? No. But it isn't exactly easy to get off either.
When I had a sizeable sailboat I used it (with fiberglass) on anything
I made of ply - trunk cabin deck, dog house, hatchs, etc. - and never
had any adhesion problem in the 20 years I owned the boat.
Consider the number of cars that have had dings filled with Bondo.
Bondo is polyester resin and talc. Have you seen many chunks of Bondo
along the roadside?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Aug 22, 2007 Posts: 5
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(Msg. 11) Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:28 am
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"dadiOH"
> Consider the number of cars that have had dings filled with Bondo.
> Bondo is polyester resin and talc. Have you seen many chunks of Bondo
> along the roadside?
Alas, yes. >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Aug 22, 2007 Posts: 5
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(Msg. 12) Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:31 am
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Toller" <Toller.TakeThisOut@Yahoo.com>
> I have epoxy (and linseed oil and polyurethane varnish) but hesitate to
> use it since it is not UV stable.
Almost nothing is UV stable, including paint, wood, epoxy, varnish,
polyurethane, and wood.
However, sealing plywood edges with epoxy, lightweight fiberglass (with the
appropriate weight fabric and a curve that it can take), covered with primer
and paint, is as good as you can plan for. As long as you maintain the paint
for appearance, it will probably serve to preserve the epoxy & fiberglass.
I figure that a decent job of it, aside from direct scrapes and dings,
should be good for 5-10 years of regular use.
If you're looking at the leading edge of a kick-up rudder that meets the
ground routinely, you'll need more than one layer of glass, and regular
touch-ups of paint. >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Jun 30, 2003 Posts: 125
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(Msg. 13) Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:59 am
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"dadiOH"
> Consider the number of cars that have had dings filled with Bondo.
> Bondo is polyester resin and talc. Have you seen many chunks of Bondo
> along the roadside?
More than I can remember.
You can spot a "Bondo Job" from a 100 ft in a snow storm.
Lew >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Sep 19, 2007 Posts: 3
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(Msg. 14) Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 3:20 am
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Sep 11, 12:00 am, "Toller" <Tol....DeleteThis@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> My Potter 15 rudder is made of 4 pieces. The top is a solid core about
> 10"x15", with two pieces ofplywoodscrewed to it on either side measuring
> 10"x30". The solid blade mounts between theplywood, below the solid top.
>
> One side of theplywoodis falling apart, and the other side isn't doing
> much better. I went to the lumber yard today to buy someplywoodto replace
> the bad parts. They have Marine Fir and Marine Okoume. They told me that
> neither will be durable; they have to be covered with fiberglass. If that
> is true, it certainly explains why the original is falling apart, as it is
> not covered in fiberglass.
>
> I bought a piece of fir, which I will cover with spar varnish just to get me
> through the end of the year. This winter I will rebuild the whole thing.
> (neither the top core nor the rudder blade are looking real good either).
>
> What is the story onplywood? Is nothing suitable for marine use without
> being fiberglassed? Would solid wood (3/8") substitute? Any advice on how
> I go about doing this so it is durable would be appreciated.
You can buy a marine plywood as the following:
Species: hardwood(red hardwood like Okoume is better) or birch
Glue:best Phenolic glue
The core should be void free .
Mason Pan
http://www.plywood.cc/ >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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Since: Oct 14, 2006 Posts: 2
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(Msg. 15) Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:57 pm
Post subject: Re: Marine Plywood? [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Okume is not hardwood it is softwood, as such it is often covered in
fiberglass. In France we use Moabi plywood with f/g but I'm not sure
if its available in your area.
Mason Pan wrote:
> On Sep 11, 12:00 am, "Toller" <Tol... RemoveThis @Yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>My Potter 15 rudder is made of 4 pieces. The top is a solid core about
>>10"x15", with two pieces ofplywoodscrewed to it on either side measuring
>>10"x30". The solid blade mounts between theplywood, below the solid top.
>>
>>One side of theplywoodis falling apart, and the other side isn't doing
>>much better. I went to the lumber yard today to buy someplywoodto replace
>>the bad parts. They have Marine Fir and Marine Okoume. They told me that
>>neither will be durable; they have to be covered with fiberglass. If that
>>is true, it certainly explains why the original is falling apart, as it is
>>not covered in fiberglass.
>>
>>I bought a piece of fir, which I will cover with spar varnish just to get me
>>through the end of the year. This winter I will rebuild the whole thing.
>>(neither the top core nor the rudder blade are looking real good either).
>>
>>What is the story onplywood? Is nothing suitable for marine use without
>>being fiberglassed? Would solid wood (3/8") substitute? Any advice on how
>>I go about doing this so it is durable would be appreciated.
>
>
> You can buy a marine plywood as the following:
> Species: hardwood(red hardwood like Okoume is better) or birch
> Glue:best Phenolic glue
> The core should be void free .
>
> Mason Pan
> http://www.plywood.cc/
> >> Stay informed about: Marine Plywood? |
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