Marine board finshing

Starboard is a brand of polyethylene sheet sold for boat trim uses. It is
easily cut and shaped with saws, planes and routers but doesn't sand well.
It weathers very well but is heavy and does not have good stiffness or
strength for its weight.
Being polyehylene (think milk jugs) it does not hold a finish and can only
be glued using specialized and pricey adhesives.



"Michael" <newszz10.TakeThisOut@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0aWdnRiYuo83kS3enZ2dnUVZ_vmdnZ2d@comcast.com...
> I'm not a boater but I am a woodworker and was wondering if anyone can
tell
> me about this "starboard" or marine grade plastic sheet.
>
> I've never used it before.
>
> I'd like to know how well the edges can be finished on the material, with
a
> sander, buffer, jointer? or?
>
> I can finish acrylic edges fine but have yet to meet a plastic that will
> give a good finished edge......but I had someone suggest this Starboard
> stuff. (would like 3/8" thick or 1/4")
>
> Thanks.
>
>
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"Shortwave Sportfishing" <onetwothree DeleteThis @four.com> wrote in message
news:qoa0r1ls74r1ptr84ku35613dmuef6rrkk@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 10:30:51 -0500, "Michael" <newszz10 DeleteThis @yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>I'm not a boater but I am a woodworker and was wondering if anyone can
>>tell
>>me about this "starboard" or marine grade plastic sheet.
>>
>>I've never used it before.
>>
>>I'd like to know how well the edges can be finished on the material, with
>>a
>>sander, buffer, jointer? or?
>>
>>I can finish acrylic edges fine but have yet to meet a plastic that will
>>give a good finished edge......but I had someone suggest this Starboard
>>stuff. (would like 3/8" thick or 1/4")
>
> It you use a high speed router, it will take a surprising well
> finished edge. On things that I've made with it, the edges have
> always been smooth and when using a hollow ground blade, fairly
> joinable.
>
> The main problem is getting edges to stick together if you are
> joining, but if you use a good grade epoxy and mechanical clamps, it
> will set up very nicely.
>
> You can get a fairly good finish using the technique that Wayne
> described.

Did you find you had to slow down the router to keep the plastic from
melting?
 >> Stay informed about: Marine board finshing 

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:41:18 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<ancientangler.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Did you find you had to slow down the router to keep the plastic from
>melting?

====================

The plastic melts when the cutting bit gets too hot. Slowing down too
much can actually make the problem worse. Nice sharp carbide bits are
the best defense, using nice beefy bits with a 1/2 inch shank helps
also.
 >> Stay informed about: Marine board finshing 

Wayne.B wrote:

> On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:41:18 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <ancientangler.DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Did you find you had to slow down the router to keep the plastic from
>>melting?
>
>
> ====================
>
> The plastic melts when the cutting bit gets too hot. Slowing down too
> much can actually make the problem worse. Nice sharp carbide bits are
> the best defense, using nice beefy bits with a 1/2 inch shank helps
> also.
>
we used to machine delrin parts in a shallow tub of water to prevent
melting. It kept the mill cool enough to allow decent feed rates.

Perhaps a mist of water (or even soapy water to keep the surface wet) to
keep things cool along with high cutter speeds and low feed rates?

--
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3
 >> Stay informed about: Marine board finshing 

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