Oil change on Evinrude 30hp

Jimbo wrote:
 > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.TakeThisOut@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
 > news:1094378058.52164.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
  >> Hi al, and excuse the ignorance! I've been asked to change the gear
  >> oil on a friend's fishing boat. It's a 30 hp Evinrude outboard,
  >> about 10 years old. To my knowledge it has never had an oil change
  >> before. Before anyone gasps in horror, I must point out that it is
  >> only used one week a year!
  >>
  >> I have had a look at the handbook, and have located the top and
  >> bottom screws for draining and refilling. Before I start, is it
  >> necessary to obtain any replacement washers, and before I do this,
  >> am I likely to have any trouble unscrewing these two after they have
  >> not been removed in years. The boat is used in sea water, and is
  >> thoroughly washed down and defogged before storage.
  >> If anyone can advise me of any other potential pitfalls, I shall be
  >> extremely grateful !
  >> Thanks
  >> John
 >
 > You should not need sealing washers--they are made from phenolic and
 > are very durable. Should the screws fail to cone out easily--heat
 > them slightly with a gas torch and use a 1/8" punch in the outer lip
 > of the screwdriver slot and tap on it in a CCW direction. I assume
 > you know that you should not get more than a few drops of water on
 > draining and that you fill from the bottom until it overflows. Good
 > Luck

Thanks for the great advice Jimbo - very much appreciated. I'm interested to
see how much water comes out after all this time.
Regards
John<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

"John Orrett" <johnorrett.DeleteThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1094491439.15738.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
 > Jimbo wrote:
  > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.DeleteThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
  > > news:1094378058.52164.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > >> Hi al, and excuse the ignorance! I've been asked to change the gear
   > >> oil on a friend's fishing boat. It's a 30 hp Evinrude outboard,
   > >> about 10 years old. To my knowledge it has never had an oil change
   > >> before. Before anyone gasps in horror, I must point out that it is
   > >> only used one week a year!
   > >>
   > >> I have had a look at the handbook, and have located the top and
   > >> bottom screws for draining and refilling. Before I start, is it
   > >> necessary to obtain any replacement washers, and before I do this,
   > >> am I likely to have any trouble unscrewing these two after they have
   > >> not been removed in years. The boat is used in sea water, and is
   > >> thoroughly washed down and defogged before storage.
   > >> If anyone can advise me of any other potential pitfalls, I shall be
   > >> extremely grateful !
   > >> Thanks
   > >> John
  > >
  > > You should not need sealing washers--they are made from phenolic and
  > > are very durable. Should the screws fail to cone out easily--heat
  > > them slightly with a gas torch and use a 1/8" punch in the outer lip
  > > of the screwdriver slot and tap on it in a CCW direction. I assume
  > > you know that you should not get more than a few drops of water on
  > > draining and that you fill from the bottom until it overflows. Good
  > > Luck
 >
 > Thanks for the great advice Jimbo - very much appreciated. I'm interested
to
 > see how much water comes out after all this time.
 > Regards
 > John
 >
 >
My guess--as I did a lot of work on these engines--About a thimble full
followed by about 6 oz of evil smelling black oil. While you are there it
would be worth the effort to remove the prop and grease the shaft. Also
remove any fishing line that may be twisted around the shaft near the seals.
Good Luck<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

Jimbo wrote:
 > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.TakeThisOut@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
 > news:1094491439.15738.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
  >> Jimbo wrote:
   >>> "John Orrett" <johnorrett.TakeThisOut@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
   >>> news:1094378058.52164.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   >>>> Hi al, and excuse the ignorance! I've been asked to change the gear
   >>>> oil on a friend's fishing boat. It's a 30 hp Evinrude outboard,
   >>>> about 10 years old. To my knowledge it has never had an oil change
   >>>> before. Before anyone gasps in horror, I must point out that it is
   >>>> only used one week a year!
   >>>>
   >>>> I have had a look at the handbook, and have located the top and
   >>>> bottom screws for draining and refilling. Before I start, is it
   >>>> necessary to obtain any replacement washers, and before I do this,
   >>>> am I likely to have any trouble unscrewing these two after they
   >>>> have not been removed in years. The boat is used in sea water, and
   >>>> is thoroughly washed down and defogged before storage.
   >>>> If anyone can advise me of any other potential pitfalls, I shall be
   >>>> extremely grateful !
   >>>> Thanks
   >>>> John
   >>>
   >>> You should not need sealing washers--they are made from phenolic and
   >>> are very durable. Should the screws fail to cone out easily--heat
   >>> them slightly with a gas torch and use a 1/8" punch in the outer lip
   >>> of the screwdriver slot and tap on it in a CCW direction. I assume
   >>> you know that you should not get more than a few drops of water on
   >>> draining and that you fill from the bottom until it overflows. Good
   >>> Luck
  >>
  >> Thanks for the great advice Jimbo - very much appreciated. I'm
  >> interested to see how much water comes out after all this time.
  >> Regards
  >> John
  >>
  >>
 > My guess--as I did a lot of work on these engines--About a thimble
 > full followed by about 6 oz of evil smelling black oil. While you are
 > there it would be worth the effort to remove the prop and grease the
 > shaft. Also remove any fishing line that may be twisted around the
 > shaft near the seals. Good Luck

Thanks Jimbo - something to look forward to! I also have to carry out the
same operation on a Seagull Silver Century longshaft 5hp at the same time.
I might leave the prop til next time. One of the blades has a fair dinge in
it from a rogue rock, and will be removed and replaced at the end of the
week ready for next year. I'll just try to smooth it out a little before we
use it.
Best wishes,
John<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

Re the Seagull engine

Gear oil is EP140 and it always looks emulsified, a whitish mess.

You can get the manual on CD check out EBay for parts

Regards
Dave

 >
 > Thanks Jimbo - something to look forward to! I also have to carry out the
 > same operation on a Seagull Silver Century longshaft 5hp at the same
 > time.
 > I might leave the prop til next time. One of the blades has a fair dinge
 > in
 > it from a rogue rock, and will be removed and replaced at the end of the
 > week ready for next year. I'll just try to smooth it out a little before
 > we
 > use it.
 > Best wishes,
 > John
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

"Jimbo" <pine$house@btinternet.com(remove $)> wrote in message
news:2q42ijFr0420U1@uni-berlin.de...
 >
 > "John Orrett" <johnorrett DeleteThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
 > news:1094491439.15738.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
  > > Jimbo wrote:
   > > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett DeleteThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
   > > > news:1094378058.52164.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > > >> Hi al, and excuse the ignorance! I've been asked to change the gear
   > > >> oil on a friend's fishing boat. It's a 30 hp Evinrude outboard,
   > > >> about 10 years old. To my knowledge it has never had an oil change
   > > >> before. Before anyone gasps in horror, I must point out that it is
   > > >> only used one week a year!
   > > >>
   > > >> I have had a look at the handbook, and have located the top and
   > > >> bottom screws for draining and refilling. Before I start, is it
   > > >> necessary to obtain any replacement washers, and before I do this,
   > > >> am I likely to have any trouble unscrewing these two after they have
   > > >> not been removed in years. The boat is used in sea water, and is
   > > >> thoroughly washed down and defogged before storage.
   > > >> If anyone can advise me of any other potential pitfalls, I shall be
   > > >> extremely grateful !
   > > >> Thanks
   > > >> John
   > > >
   > > > You should not need sealing washers--they are made from phenolic and
   > > > are very durable. Should the screws fail to cone out easily--heat
   > > > them slightly with a gas torch and use a 1/8" punch in the outer lip
   > > > of the screwdriver slot and tap on it in a CCW direction. I assume
   > > > you know that you should not get more than a few drops of water on
   > > > draining and that you fill from the bottom until it overflows. Good
   > > > Luck
  > >
  > > Thanks for the great advice Jimbo - very much appreciated. I'm
interested
 > to
  > > see how much water comes out after all this time.
  > > Regards
  > > John
  > >
  > >
 > My guess--as I did a lot of work on these engines--About a thimble full
 > followed by about 6 oz of evil smelling black oil. While you are there it
 > would be worth the effort to remove the prop and grease the shaft. Also
 > remove any fishing line that may be twisted around the shaft near the
seals.
 > Good Luck

Just a thought Jimbo - I've bought a can of carb cleaner to try and squirt
in through the butterfly valve. A guy in the local car spares shop who
messes around lawnmower engines reckons that oil can lie in the bottom of
the fuel bowl, especially if the engine has lain dormant for a year. Is this
likely to be the case with the Evinrude? He also reckoned that it might be
possible to unscrew the bowl and squirt some carb cleaner into the jets.
Any idea if this is feasible?
Thanks for your help,
Regards
John<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

Hi Dave, I managed to get a bottle of proper Seagull gear oil last year, but
because of the associated problems with the Evinrude, I didn't want to touch
anything until I knew it could all be put back together again! There is a
cracking little industrial unit in Liverpool that specialises in Seagulls
amongst other things marine based, and they have been helpful in getting me
fuel taps, lines etc. It's a nice reliable back up engine, even if it is
about 30 years old now. We normally just take the spark plug out, give it a
clean, and then start her up. Once all the fogging oil has been blown out,
she runs as sweet as a nut. I think she deserves an oil change!
Again, is it a fairly straightforward case of removing the two fillers
screws, drain and refill through the bottom?
Many thanks,
John



"Dave" <dave.samuel NOSPAM.TakeThisOut@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:chlb5u$q9k$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
 > Re the Seagull engine
 >
 > Gear oil is EP140 and it always looks emulsified, a whitish mess.
 >
 > You can get the manual on CD check out EBay for parts
 >
 > Regards
 > Dave
 >
  > >
  > > Thanks Jimbo - something to look forward to! I also have to carry out
the
  > > same operation on a Seagull Silver Century longshaft 5hp at the same
  > > time.
  > > I might leave the prop til next time. One of the blades has a fair dinge
  > > in
  > > it from a rogue rock, and will be removed and replaced at the end of the
  > > week ready for next year. I'll just try to smooth it out a little before
  > > we
  > > use it.
  > > Best wishes,
  > > John
  > >
  > >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

Hi John

There is only one filler/drain plug on the gearbox.

It is a nylon screw, just remove and lay the engine at an angle to drain the
oil into a container and leave it to drain.
When its finished draining, tip it upright and refill with fresh oil.

If you are using the engine in salt water ALWAYS flush it out in fresh water
after use as the salt deposits build up very quickly and block the cooling
passages which will cause overheating.
You should always get a good stream of water out of the cooling exit on the
head even on tickover. As you increase the revs, it should pump out a
stronger stream, the water temp is normally cool to the touch.

If you have a problem starting always use FRESH petrol as it goes "off"
after a few months. I always leave a small amount in the tank to cover the
drain tap to prevent the seal from drying out when being stored.

Hope this helps

Dave


"John Orrett" <johnorrett RemoveThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1094650869.1168.0@ersa.uk.clara.net...
 > Hi Dave, I managed to get a bottle of proper Seagull gear oil last year,
 > but
 > because of the associated problems with the Evinrude, I didn't want to
 > touch
 > anything until I knew it could all be put back together again! There is a
 > cracking little industrial unit in Liverpool that specialises in Seagulls
 > amongst other things marine based, and they have been helpful in getting
 > me
 > fuel taps, lines etc. It's a nice reliable back up engine, even if it is
 > about 30 years old now. We normally just take the spark plug out, give it
 > a
 > clean, and then start her up. Once all the fogging oil has been blown out,
 > she runs as sweet as a nut. I think she deserves an oil change!
 > Again, is it a fairly straightforward case of removing the two fillers
 > screws, drain and refill through the bottom?
 > Many thanks,
 > John
 >
 >
 >
 > "Dave" <dave.samuel NOSPAM RemoveThis @btinternet.com> wrote in message
 > news:chlb5u$q9k$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
  >> Re the Seagull engine
  >>
  >> Gear oil is EP140 and it always looks emulsified, a whitish mess.
  >>
  >> You can get the manual on CD check out EBay for parts
  >>
  >> Regards
  >> Dave
  >>
   >> >
   >> > Thanks Jimbo - something to look forward to! I also have to carry out
 > the
   >> > same operation on a Seagull Silver Century longshaft 5hp at the same
   >> > time.
   >> > I might leave the prop til next time. One of the blades has a fair
   >> > dinge
   >> > in
   >> > it from a rogue rock, and will be removed and replaced at the end of
   >> > the
   >> > week ready for next year. I'll just try to smooth it out a little
   >> > before
   >> > we
   >> > use it.
   >> > Best wishes,
   >> > John
   >> >
   >> >
  >>
  >>
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

"John Orrett" <johnorrett.RemoveThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1094650594.1051.0@ersa.uk.clara.net...
 >
 > "Jimbo" <pine$house@btinternet.com(remove $)> wrote in message
 > news:2q42ijFr0420U1@uni-berlin.de...
  > >
  > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.RemoveThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
  > > news:1094491439.15738.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > > > Jimbo wrote:
   > > > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.RemoveThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
   > > > > news:1094378058.52164.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > > > >> Hi al, and excuse the ignorance! I've been asked to change the gear
   > > > >> oil on a friend's fishing boat. It's a 30 hp Evinrude outboard,
   > > > >> about 10 years old. To my knowledge it has never had an oil change
   > > > >> before. Before anyone gasps in horror, I must point out that it is
   > > > >> only used one week a year!
   > > > >>
   > > > >> I have had a look at the handbook, and have located the top and
   > > > >> bottom screws for draining and refilling. Before I start, is it
   > > > >> necessary to obtain any replacement washers, and before I do this,
   > > > >> am I likely to have any trouble unscrewing these two after they
have
   > > > >> not been removed in years. The boat is used in sea water, and is
   > > > >> thoroughly washed down and defogged before storage.
   > > > >> If anyone can advise me of any other potential pitfalls, I shall be
   > > > >> extremely grateful !
   > > > >> Thanks
   > > > >> John
   > > > >
   > > > > You should not need sealing washers--they are made from phenolic and
   > > > > are very durable. Should the screws fail to cone out easily--heat
   > > > > them slightly with a gas torch and use a 1/8" punch in the outer lip
   > > > > of the screwdriver slot and tap on it in a CCW direction. I assume
   > > > > you know that you should not get more than a few drops of water on
   > > > > draining and that you fill from the bottom until it overflows. Good
   > > > > Luck
   > > >
   > > > Thanks for the great advice Jimbo - very much appreciated. I'm
 > interested
  > > to
   > > > see how much water comes out after all this time.
   > > > Regards
   > > > John
   > > >
   > > >
  > > My guess--as I did a lot of work on these engines--About a thimble full
  > > followed by about 6 oz of evil smelling black oil. While you are there
it
  > > would be worth the effort to remove the prop and grease the shaft. Also
  > > remove any fishing line that may be twisted around the shaft near the
 > seals.
  > > Good Luck
 >
 > Just a thought Jimbo - I've bought a can of carb cleaner to try and squirt
 > in through the butterfly valve. A guy in the local car spares shop who
 > messes around lawnmower engines reckons that oil can lie in the bottom of
 > the fuel bowl, especially if the engine has lain dormant for a year. Is
this
 > likely to be the case with the Evinrude? He also reckoned that it might be
 > possible to unscrew the bowl and squirt some carb cleaner into the jets.
 > Any idea if this is feasible?
 > Thanks for your help,
 > Regards
 > John

Yes John--carb cleaner does work to shift the gunge. There should be a brass
nut holding the bowls on--when you remove the nut/bolt the bowl will drop
away (save the gasket) and you can clean it out with carb spray. There is
also a jet orfice on the front face of the carb--a brass insert with a
drilled hole--a good dose of spray there may clean the idle jet. The idle
mixture screw is on the side of the carb--DO-Not turn it at all--they can be
quite tricky to adjust.
 >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

"John Orrett" <johnorrett.RemoveThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1094650594.1051.0@ersa.uk.clara.net...
 >
 > "Jimbo" <pine$house@btinternet.com(remove $)> wrote in message
 > news:2q42ijFr0420U1@uni-berlin.de...
  > >
  > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.RemoveThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
  > > news:1094491439.15738.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > > > Jimbo wrote:
   > > > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.RemoveThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
   > > > > news:1094378058.52164.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > > > >> Hi al, and excuse the ignorance! I've been asked to change the gear
   > > > >> oil on a friend's fishing boat. It's a 30 hp Evinrude outboard,
   > > > >> about 10 years old. To my knowledge it has never had an oil change
   > > > >> before. Before anyone gasps in horror, I must point out that it is
   > > > >> only used one week a year!
   > > > >>
   > > > >> I have had a look at the handbook, and have located the top and
   > > > >> bottom screws for draining and refilling. Before I start, is it
   > > > >> necessary to obtain any replacement washers, and before I do this,
   > > > >> am I likely to have any trouble unscrewing these two after they
have
   > > > >> not been removed in years. The boat is used in sea water, and is
   > > > >> thoroughly washed down and defogged before storage.
   > > > >> If anyone can advise me of any other potential pitfalls, I shall be
   > > > >> extremely grateful !
   > > > >> Thanks
   > > > >> John
   > > > >
   > > > > You should not need sealing washers--they are made from phenolic and
   > > > > are very durable. Should the screws fail to cone out easily--heat
   > > > > them slightly with a gas torch and use a 1/8" punch in the outer lip
   > > > > of the screwdriver slot and tap on it in a CCW direction. I assume
   > > > > you know that you should not get more than a few drops of water on
   > > > > draining and that you fill from the bottom until it overflows. Good
   > > > > Luck
   > > >
   > > > Thanks for the great advice Jimbo - very much appreciated. I'm
 > interested
  > > to
   > > > see how much water comes out after all this time.
   > > > Regards
   > > > John
   > > >
   > > >
  > > My guess--as I did a lot of work on these engines--About a thimble full
  > > followed by about 6 oz of evil smelling black oil. While you are there
it
  > > would be worth the effort to remove the prop and grease the shaft. Also
  > > remove any fishing line that may be twisted around the shaft near the
 > seals.
  > > Good Luck
 >
 > Just a thought Jimbo - I've bought a can of carb cleaner to try and squirt
 > in through the butterfly valve. A guy in the local car spares shop who
 > messes around lawnmower engines reckons that oil can lie in the bottom of
 > the fuel bowl, especially if the engine has lain dormant for a year. Is
this
 > likely to be the case with the Evinrude? He also reckoned that it might be
 > possible to unscrew the bowl and squirt some carb cleaner into the jets.
 > Any idea if this is feasible?
 > Thanks for your help,
 > Regards
 > John
 >
 >
 > SPECIAL NOTICE --- John, I have just thought about your original message.
I should tell you that if this engine has not been to a shop for 10 years I
have serious concern about the cooling water pump. The impellor in the pump
is a rubber device that has a limited life span and 10 years is way over the
mark for replacement. Should it fail it could leave the boat without power.
That could be a very dangerous situation. Please consider that.
Cheers--Jim.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

"Jimbo" <pine$house@btinternet.com(remove $)> wrote in message
news:2q9hb4Ft77smU1@uni-berlin.de...
 >
 > "John Orrett" <johnorrett DeleteThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
 > news:1094650594.1051.0@ersa.uk.clara.net...
  > >
  > > "Jimbo" <pine$house@btinternet.com(remove $)> wrote in message
  > > news:2q42ijFr0420U1@uni-berlin.de...
   > > >
   > > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett DeleteThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
   > > > news:1094491439.15738.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > > > > Jimbo wrote:
   > > > > > "John Orrett" <johnorrett DeleteThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
   > > > > > news:1094378058.52164.0@doris.uk.clara.net...
   > > > > >> Hi al, and excuse the ignorance! I've been asked to change the
gear
   > > > > >> oil on a friend's fishing boat. It's a 30 hp Evinrude outboard,
   > > > > >> about 10 years old. To my knowledge it has never had an oil
change
   > > > > >> before. Before anyone gasps in horror, I must point out that it
is
   > > > > >> only used one week a year!
   > > > > >>
   > > > > >> I have had a look at the handbook, and have located the top and
   > > > > >> bottom screws for draining and refilling. Before I start, is it
   > > > > >> necessary to obtain any replacement washers, and before I do
this,
   > > > > >> am I likely to have any trouble unscrewing these two after they
 > have
   > > > > >> not been removed in years. The boat is used in sea water, and is
   > > > > >> thoroughly washed down and defogged before storage.
   > > > > >> If anyone can advise me of any other potential pitfalls, I shall
be
   > > > > >> extremely grateful !
   > > > > >> Thanks
   > > > > >> John
   > > > > >
   > > > > > You should not need sealing washers--they are made from phenolic
and
   > > > > > are very durable. Should the screws fail to cone out easily--heat
   > > > > > them slightly with a gas torch and use a 1/8" punch in the outer
lip
   > > > > > of the screwdriver slot and tap on it in a CCW direction. I assume
   > > > > > you know that you should not get more than a few drops of water on
   > > > > > draining and that you fill from the bottom until it overflows.
Good
   > > > > > Luck
   > > > >
   > > > > Thanks for the great advice Jimbo - very much appreciated. I'm
  > > interested
   > > > to
   > > > > see how much water comes out after all this time.
   > > > > Regards
   > > > > John
   > > > >
   > > > >
   > > > My guess--as I did a lot of work on these engines--About a thimble
full
   > > > followed by about 6 oz of evil smelling black oil. While you are there
 > it
   > > > would be worth the effort to remove the prop and grease the shaft.
Also
   > > > remove any fishing line that may be twisted around the shaft near the
  > > seals.
   > > > Good Luck
  > >
  > > Just a thought Jimbo - I've bought a can of carb cleaner to try and
squirt
  > > in through the butterfly valve. A guy in the local car spares shop who
  > > messes around lawnmower engines reckons that oil can lie in the bottom
of
  > > the fuel bowl, especially if the engine has lain dormant for a year. Is
 > this
  > > likely to be the case with the Evinrude? He also reckoned that it might
be
  > > possible to unscrew the bowl and squirt some carb cleaner into the jets.
  > > Any idea if this is feasible?
  > > Thanks for your help,
  > > Regards
  > > John
  > >
  > >
  > > SPECIAL NOTICE --- John, I have just thought about your original
message.
 > I should tell you that if this engine has not been to a shop for 10 years
I
 > have serious concern about the cooling water pump. The impellor in the
pump
 > is a rubber device that has a limited life span and 10 years is way over
the
 > mark for replacement. Should it fail it could leave the boat without
power.
 > That could be a very dangerous situation. Please consider that.
 > Cheers--Jim.

Thanks for the valuable advice Jim. Is the impellor sucking the water up
from the sea to cool the engine? The reason I ask is that there is still
good jets of water coming out of the exhausts. I will try to get the boat
thoroughly serviced in the near future.
Regards
John<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp 

Thanks for the feedback Dave. The engine is ran thoroughly in a barrel of
fresh water before wintering up. There is a good steady stream of water from
the cooling vents.
I also ordered the manual from eBay as you suggested, and hopefully that
will be here today! Great advice, thanks!
Regards
John

"Dave" <dave.samuel NOSPAM.RemoveThis@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:chnrv3$1bg$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
 > Hi John
 >
 > There is only one filler/drain plug on the gearbox.
 >
 > It is a nylon screw, just remove and lay the engine at an angle to drain
the
 > oil into a container and leave it to drain.
 > When its finished draining, tip it upright and refill with fresh oil.
 >
 > If you are using the engine in salt water ALWAYS flush it out in fresh
water
 > after use as the salt deposits build up very quickly and block the cooling
 > passages which will cause overheating.
 > You should always get a good stream of water out of the cooling exit on
the
 > head even on tickover. As you increase the revs, it should pump out a
 > stronger stream, the water temp is normally cool to the touch.
 >
 > If you have a problem starting always use FRESH petrol as it goes "off"
 > after a few months. I always leave a small amount in the tank to cover the
 > drain tap to prevent the seal from drying out when being stored.
 >
 > Hope this helps
 >
 > Dave
 >
 >
 > "John Orrett" <johnorrett.RemoveThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
 > news:1094650869.1168.0@ersa.uk.clara.net...
  > > Hi Dave, I managed to get a bottle of proper Seagull gear oil last year,
  > > but
  > > because of the associated problems with the Evinrude, I didn't want to
  > > touch
  > > anything until I knew it could all be put back together again! There is
a
  > > cracking little industrial unit in Liverpool that specialises in
Seagulls
  > > amongst other things marine based, and they have been helpful in getting
  > > me
  > > fuel taps, lines etc. It's a nice reliable back up engine, even if it is
  > > about 30 years old now. We normally just take the spark plug out, give
it
  > > a
  > > clean, and then start her up. Once all the fogging oil has been blown
out,
  > > she runs as sweet as a nut. I think she deserves an oil change!
  > > Again, is it a fairly straightforward case of removing the two fillers
  > > screws, drain and refill through the bottom?
  > > Many thanks,
  > > John
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > "Dave" <dave.samuel NOSPAM.RemoveThis@btinternet.com> wrote in message
  > > news:chlb5u$q9k$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
   > >> Re the Seagull engine
   > >>
   > >> Gear oil is EP140 and it always looks emulsified, a whitish mess.
   > >>
   > >> You can get the manual on CD check out EBay for parts
   > >>
   > >> Regards
   > >> Dave
   > >>
   > >> >
   > >> > Thanks Jimbo - something to look forward to! I also have to carry out
  > > the
   > >> > same operation on a Seagull Silver Century longshaft 5hp at the same
   > >> > time.
   > >> > I might leave the prop til next time. One of the blades has a fair
   > >> > dinge
   > >> > in
   > >> > it from a rogue rock, and will be removed and replaced at the end of
   > >> > the
   > >> > week ready for next year. I'll just try to smooth it out a little
   > >> > before
   > >> > we
   > >> > use it.
   > >> > Best wishes,
   > >> > John
   > >> >
   > >> >
   > >>
   > >>
  > >
  > >
 >
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Oil change on Evinrude 30hp