Replace sail boat windows.

In response to Terry who had written;
>
> : Planning to replace four cabin windows in our 1970s Westerly. Good time
> to
> : do so because we will also be installing new headliner and doing other
> : renovations..
>
"Thomas D. Ireland" <ug123.TakeThisOut@vtn1.victoria.tc.ca> wrote in message
news:42f52b29@news.victoria.tc.ca...
> If you knew any carpentry you could make your own.
>
> Tom
>
Tom; thanks for any suggestions; this type of replacement is something one
probably does once in a lifetime (of self and boat!).
Not quite sure though what you mean by carpentry?
Do you mean that I could cut out, using, say, my jig saw etc. the Lexan or
Plexiglass replacements myself?
Our 'windows' (I've avoided calling them 'ports' cos they don't open)
comprise four separate units mounted in the fibreglass 'side-wall' of the
coach roof. Note.
So there is no wood involved at all in the window replacement. Also don't
forsee any modification to the fibreglass coach roof itself, so the pieces
of claear plastic will presumably be exact replacements of the existing.
We have had to remove some interor wood work in order to completely remove
the headliners which were 'tucked' under the edges of the wood trim.
Going to our workshop in a few minutes to start sanding and revarnishing
some of the boat woodwork. Other interior wood-work trim needs also
refinishing; including the slatted wooden cockpit sole, cockpit seats etc.
Also making a replacement for one short section of the teak rubbing strake.
Which got damaged during last lift out!
Refinishing woodwork being one of many tasks refitting this 30+ year old but
little used boat!
All comments ideas welcomed.
Terry.
Note. Also intend to have plywood 'emergency' pre-cut pieces that could be
quickly placed and secured in place of a couple of smashed windows. Also
spare washboards for main cabin entry and another pre-cut to quickly replace
and secure in place of the forward hatch cover. There is sufficient space in
this boat to stow them.
 >> Stay informed about: Replace sail boat windows. 

Terry (tsanford@nf.sympatico.ca) wrote:
: In response to Terry who had written;
: >
: > : Planning to replace four cabin windows in our 1970s Westerly. Good time
: > to
: > : do so because we will also be installing new headliner and doing other
: > : renovations..
: >
: "Thomas D. Ireland" <ug123.TakeThisOut@vtn1.victoria.tc.ca> wrote in message
: news:42f52b29@news.victoria.tc.ca...
: > If you knew any carpentry you could make your own.
: >
: > Tom
: >
: Tom; thanks for any suggestions; this type of replacement is something one
: probably does once in a lifetime (of self and boat!).
: Not quite sure though what you mean by carpentry?
: Do you mean that I could cut out, using, say, my jig saw etc. the Lexan or
: Plexiglass replacements myself?

I was thinking of doing the same but replacing existing with wooden
portholes made with a plunge router.

Tom

: Our 'windows' (I've avoided calling them 'ports' cos they don't open)
: comprise four separate units mounted in the fibreglass 'side-wall' of the
: coach roof. Note.
: So there is no wood involved at all in the window replacement. Also don't
: forsee any modification to the fibreglass coach roof itself, so the pieces
: of claear plastic will presumably be exact replacements of the existing.
: We have had to remove some interor wood work in order to completely remove
: the headliners which were 'tucked' under the edges of the wood trim.
: Going to our workshop in a few minutes to start sanding and revarnishing
: some of the boat woodwork. Other interior wood-work trim needs also
: refinishing; including the slatted wooden cockpit sole, cockpit seats etc.
: Also making a replacement for one short section of the teak rubbing strake.
: Which got damaged during last lift out!
: Refinishing woodwork being one of many tasks refitting this 30+ year old but
: little used boat!
: All comments ideas welcomed.
: Terry.
: Note. Also intend to have plywood 'emergency' pre-cut pieces that could be
: quickly placed and secured in place of a couple of smashed windows. Also
: spare washboards for main cabin entry and another pre-cut to quickly replace
: and secure in place of the forward hatch cover. There is sufficient space in
: this boat to stow them.



--
 >> Stay informed about: Replace sail boat windows. 

Lexan is stronger than Plexiglass (Acrylic) but I believe it is softer and
scratches more easily. You might want to investigate this a bit. I think
most production boats used acrylic for ports.

"Terry" <tsanford.TakeThisOut@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:haPIe.7570$z91.854605@news20.bellglobal.com...
> Planning to replace four cabin windows in our 1970s Westerly. Good time to
> do so because we will also be installing new headliner and doing other
> renovations..
> Existing windows are 'crazed' (and possibly scratched), maybe by use of
> improper cleaning products, by previous owners? Although they are nothing
> like as bad as some plastic boat windows we have seen which were so
> clouded and/or yellowed to be almost opaque!
> Talking to a local 'glass' supplier; quarter-inch Lexan is about $12 per
> sq. foot cut to size, and is said to be stronger. Plexiglass etc. somewhat
> cheaper.
> Each window is approx 10 by 24 inches and each window has a metal surround
> with inner and outer pieces. These are held together with small stainless
> bolts; which all look to be in good condition; so don't expect too much
> difficulty. Although as with anything something can strip or break during
> removal on a 30+ year old boat!
> Idea is to install the new windows but not peel off/remove the protective
> paper until after other boat renovations are finished.
> Any advice/comments by anyone who has done this type of replacement would
> be most appreciated.
>
 >> Stay informed about: Replace sail boat windows. 

On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 17:03:38 -0230, "Terry" <tsanford.DeleteThis@nf.sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>Planning to replace four cabin windows in our 1970s Westerly. Good time to
>do so because we will also be installing new headliner and doing other
>renovations..
>Existing windows are 'crazed' (and possibly scratched), maybe by use of
>improper cleaning products, by previous owners?

Doubtful if cleaning product would cause crazing, more likely just the
type of plastic, plexiglass or acrylic, and age. Years of exposure to
UV in sunlight, plus thermal cycling will cause crazing.

>Talking to a local 'glass' supplier; quarter-inch Lexan is about $12 per sq.
>foot cut to size, and is said to be stronger. Plexiglass etc. somewhat
>cheaper.

Lexan is the better way to go, much stronger than plexi, virtually
buletproof. You might be able to save some money by checking at a
plastics supplier for "scrap" pieces large enough to cut your windows
from. That's what I did.

>Each window is approx 10 by 24 inches and each window has a metal surround
>with inner and outer pieces. These are held together with small stainless
>bolts; which all look to be in good condition; so don't expect too much
>difficulty. Although as with anything something can strip or break during
>removal on a 30+ year old boat!
>Idea is to install the new windows but not peel off/remove the protective
>paper until after other boat renovations are finished.
>Any advice/comments by anyone who has done this type of replacement would be
>most appreciated.
>
I replaced the four windows on a Bayliner Buccaneer 24 foot sailboat.
Not sure what the originals were - plexiglass or acrylic, but had what
looked like black metal frames, which, in fact were plastic, with the
outer frame glued to the "glass". The frames were mounted using
stainless machine screws and nuts. They obviously weren't torqued
evenly, and the plastic frames cracked at some of the bolts. Because
they were glued to the "glass", the cracks carried right through into
the plexiglass, acrylic, or whatever it was, and the windows were
plagued with leaks.
I cut new windows from lexan - easy, using a jigsaw.
Using the old plastic inner frames, I cut new frames from aluminum
stock - not easy, tough to cut, broke many blades, found coarse wood
blade better than metal blade. Lots of smoothing with a body file
needed, but in the end they turned out nice.
Bedded windows in with clear silicone sealant. Some leakage through SS
mounting screws, simply loosened them, caulked with a bit of silicone,
and retightened.
There is a temptation to try and cure leaks by tightening mounting
screws, but invariably that leads to cracked windows.
Some folks use tinted plexi or lexan, depending on deck colour can
look very nice.
 >> Stay informed about: Replace sail boat windows. 

"Looie" <johnl.DeleteThis@tcm.net> wrote in message
news:ufqjf11plabc2qcfbmr98bf556nih824ab@4ax.com...
>
> Doubtful if cleaning product would cause crazing, more likely just the
> type of plastic, plexiglass or acrylic, and age. Years of exposure to
> UV in sunlight, plus thermal cycling will cause crazing.
>
> Lexan is the better way to go, much stronger than plexi, virtually
> bulletproof. You might be able to save some money by checking at a
> plastics supplier for "scrap" pieces large enough to cut your windows
> from. That's what I did.
>
> I replaced the four windows on a Bayliner Buccaneer 24 foot sailboat.
> Not sure what the originals were - plexiglass or acrylic, but had what
> looked like black metal frames, which, in fact were plastic, with the
> outer frame glued to the "glass". The frames were mounted using
> stainless machine screws and nuts. They obviously weren't torqued
> evenly, and the plastic frames cracked at some of the bolts. Because
> they were glued to the "glass", the cracks carried right through into
> the plexiglass, acrylic, or whatever it was, and the windows were
> plagued with leaks.
> I cut new windows from lexan - easy, using a jigsaw.
> Using the old plastic inner frames, I cut new frames from aluminum
> stock - not easy, tough to cut, broke many blades, found coarse wood
> blade better than metal blade. Lots of smoothing with a body file
> needed, but in the end they turned out nice.
> Bedded windows in with clear silicone sealant. Some leakage through SS
> mounting screws, simply loosened them, caulked with a bit of silicone,
> and retightened.
> There is a temptation to try and cure leaks by tightening mounting
> screws, but invariably that leads to cracked windows.
> Some folks use tinted plexi or lexan, depending on deck colour can
> look very nice.
>
Great info and comment. Thank you John.
Terry
PS. With apologies for my slow reply since mid August.
 >> Stay informed about: Replace sail boat windows.