SBT Engine On the Way - Questions on Electrical/Mounts/Drive

I've pulled the 580cc engine from the '92 Sea-Doo GTX I bought with a
seized motor. Removal of the existing engine was pretty-much by the
book, and my new SBT motor should arrive tomorrow. Being new to Jet
Skis, I have some questions that I'm hoping you folks can help with...

- The front left engine mount dislodged during engine removal (rubber
from metal). My repair manual says this should be replaced, but is
there a special shimming process or something (or can I just order a
new mount and bolt it in)?

- The drive shaft came forward with the engine several inches before I
could put the engine back down and slide it out of the rear flywheel.
It easily seemed to slip back into place and rotates smoothly, is this
a problem?

- The internals of the electrical box have corrosion/rust on most of
the connections. Obviously I should clean the connections, but should
I be concerned about the various components within the box?

- A good bit of oil drained into the hull when one of the oil hoses
slipped it's wire tie and dropped below the level of the tank. Whats
the best way to get this out?

- I just noticed there is no place for a key on the ski. Are there
some models that don't require them?

Any help would be appreciated!
Zack ><>

"SR-71" <zack RemoveThis @zacksfamily.com> wrote in message
news:5e5d530a.0404011939.4b597139@posting.google.com...
 > I've pulled the 580cc engine from the '92 Sea-Doo GTX I bought with a
 > seized motor. Removal of the existing engine was pretty-much by the
 > book, and my new SBT motor should arrive tomorrow. Being new to Jet
 > Skis, I have some questions that I'm hoping you folks can help with...
 >
 > - The front left engine mount dislodged during engine removal (rubber
 > from metal). My repair manual says this should be replaced, but is
 > there a special shimming process or something (or can I just order a
 > new mount and bolt it in)?

Order a new mount and bolt it in. The motor and pump will need to be
aligned as well once you drop the new motor in. Hopefully you can find a
shop in the area that will do this favor for you. It takes about 30 mins
tops to do this, yet shops around here want to schedule me to take it in,
leave it for a month, and then they will get to it when they have time and
charge $149.00.
I ended up buying an alignment tool directly from sbt for $168.00
 >
 > - The drive shaft came forward with the engine several inches before I
 > could put the engine back down and slide it out of the rear flywheel.
 > It easily seemed to slip back into place and rotates smoothly, is this
 > a problem?

Nope, it does that. Its fine.
 >
 > - The internals of the electrical box have corrosion/rust on most of
 > the connections. Obviously I should clean the connections, but should
 > I be concerned about the various components within the box?

Clean it as best as you can. Personally, i would remove and lightly sand
all connections until they were clean and spray some wd-40 on them to seal
out water. If it starts up when you are done, then there's not much more
you can do.
 >
 > - A good bit of oil drained into the hull when one of the oil hoses
 > slipped it's wire tie and dropped below the level of the tank. Whats
 > the best way to get this out?

Rag or vacuum pump. Pull the gas tank if you need to, or tip the ski all
the way on its tail while on the trailer and catch the oil running out.
 >
 > - I just noticed there is no place for a key on the ski. Are there
 > some models that don't require them?

Yep, old relics like ours dont need keys. They use a safety type connection
that holds the switch down. when you fall off, it falls off and the ski
stops.
 >
 > Any help would be appreciated!
 > Zack ><><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->