 |
|
 |
|
Next: Help! need miniature float switch for bilge pump?
|
| Author |
Message |
External

Since: Feb 20, 2005 Posts: 4
|
(Msg. 16) Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: rec>boats>electronics, others (more info?)
|
|
|
Some folks recommend a minimum of 3 meters or ten feet
separation. Wouldn't hurt to conduct a test. Probably best
done with the boat out of the water so it can't move during
the test.
May not be a problem at all on a landlocked river, but other
readers might be more concerned about the effects of strong
onboard magnets on offshore navigation. Some modern speakers
have amazingly powerful magnets.
JimH wrote:
> Those speakers are not magnetically shielded. That is not a problem as long
> as you keep them away from the compass...e.g. 5 feet or so.
>
>
> "Jay" <nono.DeleteThis@noneforyou.com> wrote in message
> news:5iaSd.5909$ol3.974@fe04.lga...
>
>>They are, actually... though we're usually only on a landlocked river....
>>
>>-j
>>
>>
>>"chuck" <chuck.DeleteThis@nospam.net> wrote in message
>>news:421915a5_4@newsfeed.slurp.net...
>>
>>>Before you cut into the boat, are the speakers magnetically shielded so
>>>as not to interfere with your compass?
>>>
>>>Jeff Morris wrote:
>>>
>>>>Jay wrote:
>>>>
>
>
><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Feb 10, 2005 Posts: 6
|
(Msg. 17) Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 1:39 pm
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
The birch idea sounds good..
Can't say I gave enclosures much though.. sounds like I need to though. .. .
-j
"Doug Kanter" <ancientangler.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:yfeSd.9798$Fl4.2848@news02.roc.ny...
> "Jay" <nono.TakeThisOut@noneforyou.com> wrote in message
> news:eqaSd.5953$cx3.1503@fe04.lga...
>> Sorry, that was a bit uninformative..
>> They weigh about 2 or 3 pounds/piece. They didn't come with back braces,
>> and they would probably mount ok... my concern is the shock of slamming
>> over wakes over time, cracking the perimeter...
>
> Get yourself a piece of 3/4" birch ply. Cut a square for each speaker,
> about 2" bigger than the speaker. Cut your holes in the fiberglass. Make
> them perfect. Put the birch ply behind the holes you've made, trace the
> holes onto the plywood, and cut holes in that, too. Actually, do that
> ***BEFORE*** you've cut it into squares. The big piece of ply will be
> easier to clamp to a work surface than the smaller squares. Mount the
> speakers with the wooden squares as bracing from behind.
>
> One thing you didn't mention: What will be the enclosure BEHIND the
> speakers? For any speaker, there's a very small range of correct enclosure
> size. Get far from that range and the speaker becomes all but useless in
> terms of bass response. Trying to get decent bass by dicking around with
> tone controls will just overdrive your radio or amplifier, and blow up
> your speakers in short order. Hint: In even the quietest cars, you need
> about 75 ***CLEAN*** watts per channel to overcome road noise. If you
> intend to run this stereo in a boat while the engine's running, you need
> about twice that much power. Otherwise, you'd better be a big fan of
> distortion and blown speakers.
><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Feb 22, 2005 Posts: 1
|
(Msg. 18) Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:40 pm
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 13, 2005 Posts: 409
|
(Msg. 19) Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:40 pm
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
"Jofra" <jofra RemoveThis @es.co.nz> wrote in message
news:cvdf53$mvt$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...
> Don't put the holes through the hull below waterline.
>
> Just a thought
>
> jofra
>
I hope he doesn't put hole through the hull anywhere on the boat for this
speaker installation.  <!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 10, 2004 Posts: 141
|
(Msg. 20) Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 7:24 pm
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
Might be a good idea to determine what's behind the bulkhead before
drilling and cutting. If you cut the hole accurately, you can use SS
wood screws in correctly sized holes to attach them.
JR
Jay wrote:
> So I finally found a set of speakers that seemed like a good enough deal and
> they came in last week. I'm wondering if anyone has any input/experience
> installing speakers. They aren't flush mount which needs I'll need to be
> cutting a few holes... some of my curiosity lies in wondering if there's any
> certain saw blades one should use for cutting fiberglass.... I was going to
> just drill a few holes to start a hand jig saw... maybe tape up the area
> with duck tape to avoid scratching.. other than that I didn't really know if
> there was anything one should take precaution with.
>
> Also, though they weigh a couple pounds each, should I worry much about
> providing some of support to the backing... like a brace to dissipate weight
> on the fiberglass walls?
>
> TIA
>
> -j
>
>
--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth" target="_blank">http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth</a><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Feb 22, 2004 Posts: 28
|
(Msg. 21) Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:40 pm
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear surface of
the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the speaker.
Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel itself out
as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound from
the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates an
infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound waves
can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls of the
enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up most
of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting in
little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed and
big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with a
tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but that
isn't simple physics any more...
--
Ken Heaton
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton AT ess wye dee DOT eastlink DOT ca
"Jay" <nono.TakeThisOut@noneforyou.com> wrote in message
news:18pSd.15405$zA7.124@fe06.lga...
> The birch idea sounds good..
> Can't say I gave enclosures much though.. sounds like I need to though. ..
..
>
> -j
>
>
> "Doug Kanter" <ancientangler.TakeThisOut@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:yfeSd.9798$Fl4.2848@news02.roc.ny...
> > "Jay" <nono.TakeThisOut@noneforyou.com> wrote in message
> > news:eqaSd.5953$cx3.1503@fe04.lga...
> >> Sorry, that was a bit uninformative..
> >> They weigh about 2 or 3 pounds/piece. They didn't come with back
braces,
> >> and they would probably mount ok... my concern is the shock of slamming
> >> over wakes over time, cracking the perimeter...
> >
> > Get yourself a piece of 3/4" birch ply. Cut a square for each speaker,
> > about 2" bigger than the speaker. Cut your holes in the fiberglass. Make
> > them perfect. Put the birch ply behind the holes you've made, trace the
> > holes onto the plywood, and cut holes in that, too. Actually, do that
> > ***BEFORE*** you've cut it into squares. The big piece of ply will be
> > easier to clamp to a work surface than the smaller squares. Mount the
> > speakers with the wooden squares as bracing from behind.
> >
> > One thing you didn't mention: What will be the enclosure BEHIND the
> > speakers? For any speaker, there's a very small range of correct
enclosure
> > size. Get far from that range and the speaker becomes all but useless in
> > terms of bass response. Trying to get decent bass by dicking around with
> > tone controls will just overdrive your radio or amplifier, and blow up
> > your speakers in short order. Hint: In even the quietest cars, you need
> > about 75 ***CLEAN*** watts per channel to overcome road noise. If you
> > intend to run this stereo in a boat while the engine's running, you need
> > about twice that much power. Otherwise, you'd better be a big fan of
> > distortion and blown speakers.
> >
>
><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 13, 2005 Posts: 27
|
(Msg. 22) Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:40 pm
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
Ken Heaton wrote:
> Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear surface of
> the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the speaker.
> Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel itself out
> as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound from
> the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates an
> infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound waves
> can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls of the
> enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up most
> of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting in
> little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed and
> big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with a
> tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but that
> isn't simple physics any more...
Good explanation. It also helps to know the wavelengths. Sound travels
about 1127 ft/second in air and wavelength = velocity/frequency so...
freq. wavelength
(Hz) (ft)
20 56
40 28
80 14<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 29, 2004 Posts: 760
|
(Msg. 23) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 7:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
"-rick-" <nobody RemoveThis @home.com> wrote in message
news:6rGdnZJFp5ngOYffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> Ken Heaton wrote:
>> Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear surface
>> of
>> the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the
>> speaker.
>> Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel itself
>> out
>> as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound from
>> the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates an
>> infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound waves
>> can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls of
>> the
>> enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up
>> most
>> of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting in
>> little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed and
>> big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with a
>> tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but
>> that
>> isn't simple physics any more...
>
> Good explanation. It also helps to know the wavelengths. Sound travels
> about 1127 ft/second in air and wavelength = velocity/frequency so...
>
> freq. wavelength
> (Hz) (ft)
>
> 20 56
> 40 28
> 80 14
>
All good points. If he can't build a perfect enclosure, a good ballpark
figure (at least with my experience) is that most car doors are a "pretty
good size" for decent 5" to 6" speakers, assuming they've got at least 10-15
watts of CLEAN power driving them.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 13, 2005 Posts: 409
|
(Msg. 24) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 8:23 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
"-rick-" <nobody.DeleteThis@home.com> wrote in message
news:6rGdnZJFp5ngOYffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> Ken Heaton wrote:
>> Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear surface
>> of
>> the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the
>> speaker.
>> Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel itself
>> out
>> as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound from
>> the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates an
>> infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound waves
>> can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls of
>> the
>> enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up
>> most
>> of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting in
>> little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed and
>> big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with a
>> tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but
>> that
>> isn't simple physics any more...
>
> Good explanation. It also helps to know the wavelengths. Sound travels
> about 1127 ft/second in air and wavelength = velocity/frequency so...
>
> freq. wavelength
> (Hz) (ft)
>
> 20 56
> 40 28
> 80 14
>
Holy cow. This ain't rocket science folks.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 29, 2004 Posts: 760
|
(Msg. 25) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 8:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
"JimH" <Me DeleteThis @aol.com> wrote in message
news:cJidnaKWvI7YuYbfRVn-tg@comcast.com...
>
> "-rick-" <nobody DeleteThis @home.com> wrote in message
> news:6rGdnZJFp5ngOYffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
>> Ken Heaton wrote:
>>> Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear surface
>>> of
>>> the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the
>>> speaker.
>>> Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel itself
>>> out
>>> as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound
>>> from
>>> the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates an
>>> infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound waves
>>> can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls of
>>> the
>>> enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up
>>> most
>>> of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting
>>> in
>>> little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed
>>> and
>>> big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with a
>>> tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but
>>> that
>>> isn't simple physics any more...
>>
>> Good explanation. It also helps to know the wavelengths. Sound travels
>> about 1127 ft/second in air and wavelength = velocity/frequency so...
>>
>> freq. wavelength
>> (Hz) (ft)
>>
>> 20 56
>> 40 28
>> 80 14
>>
>
> Holy cow. This ain't rocket science folks.
>
Actually, it's *is* science, although it's not always possible to apply it
accurately in cars & boats. You just do the best you can, using the rocket
science as a guideline. And even if you're building freestanding speaker
cabinets for home or stage use, the science assumes a perfect speaker cone
which doesn't add color of its own, which is pretty much fiction. Even so,
the science works.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Dec 11, 2004 Posts: 537
|
(Msg. 26) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 8:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: rec>boats (more info?)
|
|
|
On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 12:55:24 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<ancientangler.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>"JimH" <Me.RemoveThis@aol.com> wrote in message
>news:cJidnaKWvI7YuYbfRVn-tg@comcast.com...
>>
>> "-rick-" <nobody.RemoveThis@home.com> wrote in message
>> news:6rGdnZJFp5ngOYffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
>>> Ken Heaton wrote:
>>>> Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear surface
>>>> of
>>>> the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the
>>>> speaker.
>>>> Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel itself
>>>> out
>>>> as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound
>>>> from
>>>> the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates an
>>>> infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound waves
>>>> can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls of
>>>> the
>>>> enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up
>>>> most
>>>> of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting
>>>> in
>>>> little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed
>>>> and
>>>> big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with a
>>>> tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but
>>>> that
>>>> isn't simple physics any more...
>>>
>>> Good explanation. It also helps to know the wavelengths. Sound travels
>>> about 1127 ft/second in air and wavelength = velocity/frequency so...
>>>
>>> freq. wavelength
>>> (Hz) (ft)
>>>
>>> 20 56
>>> 40 28
>>> 80 14
>>>
>>
>> Holy cow. This ain't rocket science folks.
>>
>
>Actually, it's *is* science, although it's not always possible to apply it
>accurately in cars & boats. You just do the best you can, using the rocket
>science as a guideline. And even if you're building freestanding speaker
>cabinets for home or stage use, the science assumes a perfect speaker cone
>which doesn't add color of its own, which is pretty much fiction. Even so,
>the science works.
Ahem - cough, cough... :>)
The science is only a guide. Sound, and fidelity which is a concept
that seems to have escaped into the ether these days, is entirely
subjective. Being subjective, what may sound good to you will not
sound good to me.
Having perfect pitch and sensitive hearing, it's one reason I don't
attend movie theaters unless I'm dragged kicking and screaming.
Later,
Tom<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 13, 2005 Posts: 409
|
(Msg. 27) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
"Short Wave Sportfishing" <emaildisguised.DeleteThis@askme.com> wrote in message
news:4ebm11thp5spts980jail5shmru39r776j@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 12:55:24 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <ancientangler.DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>"JimH" <Me.DeleteThis@aol.com> wrote in message
>>news:cJidnaKWvI7YuYbfRVn-tg@comcast.com...
>>>
>>> "-rick-" <nobody.DeleteThis@home.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6rGdnZJFp5ngOYffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
>>>> Ken Heaton wrote:
>>>>> Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear
>>>>> surface
>>>>> of
>>>>> the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the
>>>>> speaker.
>>>>> Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel
>>>>> itself
>>>>> out
>>>>> as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound
>>>>> from
>>>>> the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates
>>>>> an
>>>>> infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound
>>>>> waves
>>>>> can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls
>>>>> of
>>>>> the
>>>>> enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up
>>>>> most
>>>>> of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting
>>>>> in
>>>>> little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed
>>>>> and
>>>>> big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with
>>>>> a
>>>>> tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but
>>>>> that
>>>>> isn't simple physics any more...
>>>>
>>>> Good explanation. It also helps to know the wavelengths. Sound
>>>> travels
>>>> about 1127 ft/second in air and wavelength = velocity/frequency so...
>>>>
>>>> freq. wavelength
>>>> (Hz) (ft)
>>>>
>>>> 20 56
>>>> 40 28
>>>> 80 14
>>>>
>>>
>>> Holy cow. This ain't rocket science folks.
>>>
>>
>>Actually, it's *is* science, although it's not always possible to apply it
>>accurately in cars & boats. You just do the best you can, using the rocket
>>science as a guideline. And even if you're building freestanding speaker
>>cabinets for home or stage use, the science assumes a perfect speaker cone
>>which doesn't add color of its own, which is pretty much fiction. Even so,
>>the science works.
>
> Ahem - cough, cough... :>)
>
> The science is only a guide. Sound, and fidelity which is a concept
> that seems to have escaped into the ether these days, is entirely
> subjective. Being subjective, what may sound good to you will not
> sound good to me.
>
> Having perfect pitch and sensitive hearing, it's one reason I don't
> attend movie theaters unless I'm dragged kicking and screaming.
>
> Later,
>
> Tom
Add to that the fact that the guy is installing a $30 pair of speakers in an
open cockpit of a boat.
Nope, it ain't rocket science.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 29, 2004 Posts: 760
|
(Msg. 28) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
"Short Wave Sportfishing" <emaildisguised.RemoveThis@askme.com> wrote in message
news:4ebm11thp5spts980jail5shmru39r776j@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 12:55:24 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <ancientangler.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>"JimH" <Me.RemoveThis@aol.com> wrote in message
>>news:cJidnaKWvI7YuYbfRVn-tg@comcast.com...
>>>
>>> "-rick-" <nobody.RemoveThis@home.com> wrote in message
>>> news:6rGdnZJFp5ngOYffRVn-1g@comcast.com...
>>>> Ken Heaton wrote:
>>>>> Basic physics: take note of the distance sound leaving the rear
>>>>> surface
>>>>> of
>>>>> the speaker has to travel through the air to reach the front of the
>>>>> speaker.
>>>>> Any sound with a wavelength longer that this distance will cancel
>>>>> itself
>>>>> out
>>>>> as the sound from the front is perfectly out of phase with the sound
>>>>> from
>>>>> the rear. No bass in other words. An enclosure effectively creates
>>>>> an
>>>>> infinite distance from front to rear as the two out of phase sound
>>>>> waves
>>>>> can't get to each other. they are blocked form meeting by the walls
>>>>> of
>>>>> the
>>>>> enclosure. If the enclosure is too small the speaker ends up using up
>>>>> most
>>>>> of its power trying to compress the air inside the enclosure resulting
>>>>> in
>>>>> little low bass as well. So the enclosure has to be both well sealed
>>>>> and
>>>>> big enough to be effective. It is possible to vent an enclosure with
>>>>> a
>>>>> tuned port (often called bass reflex) allowing a smaller enclosure but
>>>>> that
>>>>> isn't simple physics any more...
>>>>
>>>> Good explanation. It also helps to know the wavelengths. Sound
>>>> travels
>>>> about 1127 ft/second in air and wavelength = velocity/frequency so...
>>>>
>>>> freq. wavelength
>>>> (Hz) (ft)
>>>>
>>>> 20 56
>>>> 40 28
>>>> 80 14
>>>>
>>>
>>> Holy cow. This ain't rocket science folks.
>>>
>>
>>Actually, it's *is* science, although it's not always possible to apply it
>>accurately in cars & boats. You just do the best you can, using the rocket
>>science as a guideline. And even if you're building freestanding speaker
>>cabinets for home or stage use, the science assumes a perfect speaker cone
>>which doesn't add color of its own, which is pretty much fiction. Even so,
>>the science works.
>
> Ahem - cough, cough... :>)
>
> The science is only a guide. Sound, and fidelity which is a concept
> that seems to have escaped into the ether these days, is entirely
> subjective. Being subjective, what may sound good to you will not
> sound good to me.
I agree, for two major, recent reasons:
- As good as they are at testing some products, Consumer Reports refuses to
acknowledge that "testing" speakers is impossible. A friend of mine who
remained in the audio biz after I left says people still get excited about
Japanese speakers made of 1/4" plywood, because CR said they were a "best
buy".
- Any time you read about tests of cell phones, they're focused on network
coverage, and phone features that absolutely nobody needs, unless they
absolutely no other qualities which recommend them as a worthwhile person.
Never any mention of the audio-related design of the phones themselves. So,
we have cell phones with noise cancelling systems that play havoc with your
voice.
But, I disagree about one thing: You can come closer to theoretical
perfection with the bass frequencies than you can with higher frequencies.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Dec 11, 2004 Posts: 537
|
(Msg. 29) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 10:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 14:05:41 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
<ancientangler.DeleteThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
~~ snippage ~~
>But, I disagree about one thing: You can come closer to theoretical
>perfection with the bass frequencies than you can with higher frequencies.
Ok, why?
Later,
Tom<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
External

Since: Jan 29, 2004 Posts: 760
|
(Msg. 30) Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:40 am
Post subject: Re: Speaker installation [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
|
|
|
"Short Wave Sportfishing" <emaildisguised.RemoveThis@askme.com> wrote in message
news:nafm11lssjaons4474ic2sjmqkcv456brr@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 14:05:41 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
> <ancientangler.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> ~~ snippage ~~
>
>>But, I disagree about one thing: You can come closer to theoretical
>>perfection with the bass frequencies than you can with higher frequencies.
>
> Ok, why?
>
> Later,
>
> Tom
I'll get back to you in a little while on this. My phones are ringing.
Damned customers don't understand that they're getting in the way of our
discussion here.  <!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ --> >> Stay informed about: Speaker installation |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |  |
| Related Topics: | vhf ext speaker - I have an Icom M45 VHF radio on my 20' runabout and although the radio itself is great, the little built-in speaker is very nearly worthless when I'm underway. It's loud enough at the dock but I can't hear a thing while I'm moving, even if I sit down...
New v8 boats forum - Hi Just to let you know a new V8 boats forum has started today. Check it out at www.v8owners.com You will need to register (free of charge) and then use the forum titled V8 powered boats. Go and have fun. regards, Richard
yup, anchors are supposed to take out other boats ... - yup, anchors are supposed to take out other boats ... killing other people, or at least seriously damaging their property. let those clowns who believe that rot in jail. where they belong, for they are part of the criminal element of today's society.
Starter Search - My starter died - so I went to AutoZone to get a new one. I had them cross-reference a 68 Mustang, since it had the comparable 427 engine. I installed it yesterday, and the thing turned beautifully. This morning I tried to fire it up, and gas came..
Threw a rod? - Hello all, I have a 1993 Yamaha Pro V 150 on my Ranger 354V bass boat. I was running today , probably about 10 minutes straight at about 3/4 throttle, when all of a sudden (I don't know a whole lot about outboards) it sounded as if I had thrown a rod.. |
|
You can post new topics in this forum You can reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|