Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup

I've built the Stevenson Projects MiniCup boat and have been quite happy
with it overall. You may want to check out the MiniCup FAQ at
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfaq=yes&id_cat=9" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfa...es&id_c</a>
or go to the <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org</a> site and follow the links. There's also
some information on my own website - <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca/" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca/</a>

My own opinion is that although you could build the boat out 1/8" ply you
would have some loss of hull strength as well as having problems fastening
such thin ply to the stringers.

--
Andrew Butchart
andrew.TakeThisOut@floatingbear.ca
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca</a>



"Parallax" <dbohara.TakeThisOut@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:792abaf9.0404031827.66307fb@posting.google.com...
 > Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes.
 > Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than
 > 1/4" ply that would be lighter?
 >
 > I am interested in building two for my kids.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

"Andrew Butchart" <andrewb.DeleteThis@abutchartconsulting.com> wrote in message news:<jYVbc.228$Hf.127555@newshog.newsread.com>...
 > I've built the Stevenson Projects MiniCup boat and have been quite happy
 > with it overall. You may want to check out the MiniCup FAQ at
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfaq=yes&id_cat=9</font" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfa...es&id_c</a>>
 > or go to the <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org</a> site and follow the links. There's also
<font color=purple> > some information on my own website - <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca/</font" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca/</font</a>>
 >
 > My own opinion is that although you could build the boat out 1/8" ply you
 > would have some loss of hull strength as well as having problems fastening
 > such thin ply to the stringers.
 >
 > --
 > Andrew Butchart
 > andrew.DeleteThis@floatingbear.ca
<font color=purple> > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca</font" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca</font</a>>
 >
 >
 >
 > "Parallax" <dbohara.DeleteThis@mindspring.com> wrote in message
 > news:792abaf9.0404031827.66307fb@posting.google.com...
  > > Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes.
  > > Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than
  > > 1/4" ply that would be lighter?
  > >
  > > I am interested in building two for my kids.

Thanks for the info.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

dbohara.TakeThisOut@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404050531.5625bdf6.TakeThisOut@posting.google.com>...
 > "Andrew Butchart" <andrewb.TakeThisOut@abutchartconsulting.com> wrote in message news:<jYVbc.228$Hf.127555@newshog.newsread.com>...
  > > I've built the Stevenson Projects MiniCup boat and have been quite happy
  > > with it overall. You may want to check out the MiniCup FAQ at
<font color=green>  > > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfaq=yes&id_cat=9</font" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfa...es&id_c</a>>
  > > or go to the <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org</a> site and follow the links. There's also
<font color=green>  > > some information on my own website - <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca/</font" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca/</font</a>>
  > >
  > > My own opinion is that although you could build the boat out 1/8" ply you
  > > would have some loss of hull strength as well as having problems fastening
  > > such thin ply to the stringers.
  > >
  > > --
  > > Andrew Butchart
  > > andrew.TakeThisOut@floatingbear.ca
<font color=green>  > > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca</font" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca</font</a>>
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > "Parallax" <dbohara.TakeThisOut@mindspring.com> wrote in message
  > > news:792abaf9.0404031827.66307fb@posting.google.com...
   > > > Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes.
   > > > Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than
   > > > 1/4" ply that would be lighter?
   > > >
   > > > I am interested in building two for my kids.
 >
 > Thanks for the info.

Day 1.

Bought the wood, 10 pieces of 4' X 8' X 1/4" Luan underlayment (I am
building 2). This stuff is very light and nicely finished. Several
ppl told me to get Mahogany instead of Fir for the stringers, etc.
The lumberyard had limited amounts of Fir but strongly suggested an
Australian wood called Agathis which I got. This was more expensive
than I thought.

Before it got dark this evening, I managed to draw out on the wood the
sides and centerboard box for 1, and the bow decking for it but did
not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting
the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen
similar stuff splinter (cutting doors).

Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

dbohara.RemoveThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404051653.9e239c6.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
 > dbohara.RemoveThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404050531.5625bdf6.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
  > > "Andrew Butchart" <andrewb.RemoveThis@abutchartconsulting.com> wrote in message news:<jYVbc.228$Hf.127555@newshog.newsread.com>...
   > > > I've built the Stevenson Projects MiniCup boat and have been quite happy
   > > > with it overall. You may want to check out the MiniCup FAQ at
<font color=brown>   > > > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfaq=yes&id_cat=9</font" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org/pn/modules.php?op=modload&name=FAQ&file=index&myfa...es&id_c</a>>
   > > > or go to the <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.byyb.org" target="_blank">http://www.byyb.org</a> site and follow the links. There's also
<font color=brown>   > > > some information on my own website - <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca/</font" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca/</font</a>>
   > > >
   > > > My own opinion is that although you could build the boat out 1/8" ply you
   > > > would have some loss of hull strength as well as having problems fastening
   > > > such thin ply to the stringers.
   > > >
   > > > --
   > > > Andrew Butchart
   > > > andrew.RemoveThis@floatingbear.ca
<font color=brown>   > > > <a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.floatingbear.ca</font" target="_blank">http://www.floatingbear.ca</font</a>>
   > > >
   > > >
   > > >
   > > > "Parallax" <dbohara.RemoveThis@mindspring.com> wrote in message
   > > > news:792abaf9.0404031827.66307fb@posting.google.com...
   > > > > Has anybody built this boat? Do you reccomend any changes.
   > > > > Considering the age of the plans, are there any materials other than
   > > > > 1/4" ply that would be lighter?
   > > > >
   > > > > I am interested in building two for my kids.
  > >
  > > Thanks for the info.
 >
 > Day 1.
 >
 > Bought the wood, 10 pieces of 4' X 8' X 1/4" Luan underlayment (I am
 > building 2). This stuff is very light and nicely finished. Several
 > ppl told me to get Mahogany instead of Fir for the stringers, etc.
 > The lumberyard had limited amounts of Fir but strongly suggested an
 > Australian wood called Agathis which I got. This was more expensive
 > than I thought.
 >
 > Before it got dark this evening, I managed to draw out on the wood the
 > sides and centerboard box for 1, and the bow decking for it but did
 > not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about cutting
 > the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen
 > similar stuff splinter (cutting doors).
 >
 > Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening.

I am considering the sails now and although the plans call for
visqueen, what about the reinforced plastic tarp material? Any ideas
on sail material. The backyard yacht building site showed one with a
different rig than the "latteen" style sail, it had a stayed mast.
Anybody know anything about it?

The plans call for the two Al poles that form the top and bottom of
the sail to be the same diameter as the mast, why not make them a
little smaller?

Thanks,

David OHara<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

dbohara.DeleteThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404051653.9e239c6.DeleteThis@posting.google.com>...
<snip> not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about
cutting
 > the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen
 > similar stuff splinter (cutting doors).
 >
 > Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening.

I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few
problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood
and you shouldn't have any problems.

FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the
rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had
problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an
extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to
make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A
few people (including me) have had problems with that.

Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since
switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost
as well.

Good luck with the project.

Andrew Butchart
andrew.DeleteThis@floatingbear.ca<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

andrew.DeleteThis@floatingbear.ca (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message news:<6d5df73f.0404060912.2362dbe5.DeleteThis@posting.google.com>...
 > dbohara.DeleteThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404051653.9e239c6.DeleteThis@posting.google.com>...
 > <snip> not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about
 > cutting
  > > the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen
  > > similar stuff splinter (cutting doors).
  > >
  > > Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening.
 >
 > I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few
 > problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood
 > and you shouldn't have any problems.
 >
 > FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the
 > rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had
 > problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an
 > extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to
 > make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A
 > few people (including me) have had problems with that.
 >
 > Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since
 > switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost
 > as well.
 >
 > Good luck with the project.
 >
 > Andrew Butchart
 > andrew.DeleteThis@floatingbear.ca


Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait.

Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

dbohara RemoveThis @mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404061806.545c0ecc RemoveThis @posting.google.com>...
> andrew RemoveThis @floatingbear.ca (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message news:<6d5df73f.0404060912.2362dbe5 RemoveThis @posting.google.com>...
> > dbohara RemoveThis @mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404051653.9e239c6 RemoveThis @posting.google.com>...
> > <snip> not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about
> > cutting
> > > the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen
> > > similar stuff splinter (cutting doors).
> > >
> > > Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening.
> >
> > I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few
> > problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood
> > and you shouldn't have any problems.
> >
> > FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the
> > rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had
> > problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an
> > extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to
> > make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A
> > few people (including me) have had problems with that.
> >
> > Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since
> > switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost
> > as well.
> >
> > Good luck with the project.
> >
> > Andrew Butchart
> > andrew RemoveThis @floatingbear.ca
>
>
> Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait.
>
> Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit.

Day 3. Drew the bulkheads and transoms

I am only drawing one set of deck and bulk/transom drawings because I
plan to use the first set as a template to draw the second (am making
two boats). I did draw two sets of sides and cebterboard well sides.
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

dbohara.DeleteThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404071653.12d5b80.DeleteThis@posting.google.com>...
> dbohara.DeleteThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404061806.545c0ecc.DeleteThis@posting.google.com>...
> > andrew.DeleteThis@floatingbear.ca (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message news:<6d5df73f.0404060912.2362dbe5.DeleteThis@posting.google.com>...
> > > dbohara.DeleteThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404051653.9e239c6.DeleteThis@posting.google.com>...
> > > <snip> not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about
> > > cutting
> > > > the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen
> > > > similar stuff splinter (cutting doors).
> > > >
> > > > Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening.
> > >
> > > I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few
> > > problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood
> > > and you shouldn't have any problems.
> > >
> > > FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the
> > > rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had
> > > problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an
> > > extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to
> > > make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A
> > > few people (including me) have had problems with that.
> > >
> > > Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since
> > > switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost
> > > as well.
> > >
> > > Good luck with the project.
> > >
> > > Andrew Butchart
> > > andrew.DeleteThis@floatingbear.ca
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait.
> >
> > Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit.
>
> Day 3. Drew the bulkheads and transoms
>
> I am only drawing one set of deck and bulk/transom drawings because I
> plan to use the first set as a template to draw the second (am making
> two boats). I did draw two sets of sides and cebterboard well sides.

Fri: Just made the joiner piece for the hull bottom. Couldnt find a
batten long enough to make the curve so first calculated the radii of
curvature and tried to draw the curves using a pen tied on a long
string. Apparently too much stretch in the string. Found a piece of
long thin stock at work and used it to draw the curve. Cut two of
them out (two boats) on a bandsaw and finished them on a table sander.
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

dbohara.RemoveThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404090917.7dc3b798.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
> dbohara.RemoveThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404071653.12d5b80.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
> > dbohara.RemoveThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404061806.545c0ecc.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
> > > andrew.RemoveThis@floatingbear.ca (Andrew Butchart) wrote in message news:<6d5df73f.0404060912.2362dbe5.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
> > > > dbohara.RemoveThis@mindspring.com (Parallax) wrote in message news:<792abaf9.0404051653.9e239c6.RemoveThis@posting.google.com>...
> > > > <snip> not have time to draw the curves. I am a little worried about
> > > > cutting
> > > > > the luan even with taping both sides of each cut because I have seen
> > > > > similar stuff splinter (cutting doors).
> > > > >
> > > > > Will try to finish the lofting tomorrow evening.
> > > >
> > > > I use a circular saw with a plywood cutting blade and have few
> > > > problems. Set the blade so that it just barely cuts through the wood
> > > > and you shouldn't have any problems.
> > > >
> > > > FYI - I would suggest waiting to cut out the decks until you have the
> > > > rest of the hull assembled, a few people (including me) have had
> > > > problems with the pieces fitting at that point. Also, there is an
> > > > extra measurement you want to do on your fore and aft bulkheads to
> > > > make sure they match the side bulkheads at the correct location. A
> > > > few people (including me) have had problems with that.
> > > >
> > > > Also, even though I used fir myself for my MiniCup, I have since
> > > > switched to spruce which is much cheaper where I live and works almost
> > > > as well.
> > > >
> > > > Good luck with the project.
> > > >
> > > > Andrew Butchart
> > > > andrew.RemoveThis@floatingbear.ca
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks for the advice as I had planned to cut out the decks tomorrow but will wait.
> > >
> > > Day 2. Finished drawing the decks and cockpit.
> >
> > Day 3. Drew the bulkheads and transoms
> >
> > I am only drawing one set of deck and bulk/transom drawings because I
> > plan to use the first set as a template to draw the second (am making
> > two boats). I did draw two sets of sides and cebterboard well sides.
>
> Fri: Just made the joiner piece for the hull bottom. Couldnt find a
> batten long enough to make the curve so first calculated the radii of
> curvature and tried to draw the curves using a pen tied on a long
> string. Apparently too much stretch in the string. Found a piece of
> long thin stock at work and used it to draw the curve. Cut two of
> them out (two boats) on a bandsaw and finished them on a table sander.

Fri. evening: Cut out most of the pieces from the luan. This project
will def. take longer than I thought. It is surprising how little
time I have to work on it. (3 kids and running a small business,
maybe I was unrealistic). It is going well anyway. Got the bottoms
glued and screwed to the joiners. How did ppl do things like this
before power screwdrivers, wow!
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

Just a tip. Anything that can be cut or left a little big and will not
be a problem shaping later, should be left as so. If you make all the
edges finish and tight, you will end up having to knock it down more
than the plan calls for later after turning and working around the
boat. I always leave ends long, edges unfinished etc, wait till you
are ready for finish, before you finish. Impatience and the will to
see something look like a beautiful boat will only cause anguish
later. I always tell folks, "yes, I am builing your boat, but you
don't want to see her now". Wait till she looks like a boat!
Scotty from SmallBoats.com
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

skcusemans.TakeThisOut@eudoramail.com (Backyard Renegade) wrote in message news:<144b721f.0404100521.f0600f4.TakeThisOut@posting.google.com>...
 > Just a tip. Anything that can be cut or left a little big and will not
 > be a problem shaping later, should be left as so. If you make all the
 > edges finish and tight, you will end up having to knock it down more
 > than the plan calls for later after turning and working around the
 > boat. I always leave ends long, edges unfinished etc, wait till you
 > are ready for finish, before you finish. Impatience and the will to
 > see something look like a beautiful boat will only cause anguish
 > later. I always tell folks, "yes, I am builing your boat, but you
 > don't want to see her now". Wait till she looks like a boat!
 > Scotty from SmallBoats.com

Scotty:

Sounds like good advice.

Day 4, I think. I had to buy a table saw since my neighbors didn't
work. I used it to cut the stringers and this went fairly well
considering I have never used a table saw ( I am not much for
woodworking). I only screwed up two stringers forgetting to set the 7
degree angle. Put the two stringers on the bottom pieces and this was
surprisingly easy. BTW, I am using that "Gorilla Glue" which is said
to be waterproof. It is strange stuff that seems to react with
moisture (you wet both surfaces prior to application) and it foams up
and fills spaces.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

The poly glues are very good and they are water activated. make sure that
you have a decent fit though as the foamed glue is not very strong.

Brian
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup 

By the way, you are making good progress. Keep it up.

Brian
 >> Stay informed about: Stevenson Projects Micro-Cup