Teak Deck

"Bewert" wrote in message

 > I'm working on a project in Vancouver BC in which the client wants an
 > exterior deck in which they want 3/4"x2 3/4" solid teak strips epoxies
to
2
 > laminated 3/4" shts of Marine plywood. They want the joints between the
 > strips to be bonded with Sikyflex caulking with no seems as on a boat
deck.
 > I was wondering if you could use regular biscuits joiners exteriorly,or
 > would they swell to much more than the teak & create problems as this
is
a
 > very wet climate,also what is the best epoxy?I thought the biscuits
would
 > help keep the planks even as I can't use screws to keep them down to
 > set.Thanks
 >
 >

You can do the epoxy part using a method descibed in the W.E.S.T system
epoxy booklet entitled "Fiberglass boat repair and maintenance" page 45.
Basicly you use screws inserted in the space between boards to clamp the
teak while the epoxy is curing. After cure they are removed and their
holes are filled with epoxy. The spaces btween the planks are filled with
sikaflex or something similar.

Here's the problem. It sound like your customers are asking that the teak
be laid up tight without any significant joint between the planks.
Assuming that this is a horizontal outdoor surface of unvarnished teak,
this arrangement is guaranteed to fail. The problem is that the teak will
expand and contract with varying moisture levels. Percent of shrinkage of
teak is about 4% from winter wet to summer dry. That means that a 4' panel
of teak will grow about 2" when wet in the first winter after
installation. This incease in dimension must have some place to go. In a
tight installation, it will result in pressure on whatever bounds the
edges and you will see cupping in the center planks which will probably
result in breakage of the epoxy bond. This is the entire rationalle behind
the 1/8" plus sikaflex joint between teak planks/strips on boats. Each 2
3/4" strip will only move 0.1" seasonally. The adjacent sikaflex seam can
easily handle that kind of movement without transmitting the force to the
neighboring strip. Additionally, the epoxy bond on the bottom of each
strip is unlikely to rupture as the movement is distributed accross the
entire bottom face of the strip. Your 2 3/4" are the widest strips I would
use in this sort of application. Narrower strips of about 1 7/8 are vastly
superior.

Let us know what you do and how it comes through the first winter. Never
underestimate the power of expanding wood. It was used to split the stones
that built the pyramids.


David
S/V Nausicaa
 >> Stay informed about: Teak Deck 

If there must be tight seams, I'd fear that the expansion and contraction of
the 3/4" teak will produce forces that the adhesive will not tolerate. The
panel will disassemble itself over a year or two. The remedy is to use thinner
stock, say 3/16". Use slow epoxy such as WEST 105/206, secure the strips
temporarily with staples and vacuum bag the whole panel.

I'd try very hard to talk the client out of tight seams. With open seams, you
can use screws between the planks for clamping and don't need to vacuum bag teh
panel. More importantly, the probability that it'll stay together is higher.
Use Teak Decking Systems goo for the seams.
There's more on the technique in the West System pamphlets and in the Gougeon
book.

Bewert wrote:

 > I'm working on a project in Vancouver BC in which the client wants an
 > exterior deck in which they want 3/4"x2 3/4" solid teak strips epoxies to 2
 > laminated 3/4" shts of Marine plywood. They want the joints between the
 > strips to be bonded with Sikyflex caulking with no seems as on a boat deck.
 > I was wondering if you could use regular biscuits joiners exteriorly,or
 > would they swell to much more than the teak & create problems as this is a
 > very wet climate,also what is the best epoxy?I thought the biscuits would
 > help keep the planks even as I can't use screws to keep them down to
 > set.Thanks
 >> Stay informed about: Teak Deck 

"no seems as on a boat deck"
Is this on a boat? Or attached to a house?

"Bewert" wrote in message

 > I'm working on a project in Vancouver BC in which the client wants an
 > exterior deck in which they want 3/4"x2 3/4" solid teak strips epoxies to
2
 > laminated 3/4" shts of Marine plywood. They want the joints between the
 > strips to be bonded with Sikyflex caulking with no seems as on a boat
deck.
 > I was wondering if you could use regular biscuits joiners exteriorly,or
 > would they swell to much more than the teak & create problems as this is a
 > very wet climate,also what is the best epoxy?I thought the biscuits would
 > help keep the planks even as I can't use screws to keep them down to
 > set.Thanks
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Teak Deck 

On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 05:06:55 GMT, "Bewert" wrote:

 >I'm working on a project in Vancouver BC in which the client wants an
 >exterior deck in which they want 3/4"x2 3/4" solid teak strips epoxies to 2
 >laminated 3/4" shts of Marine plywood. They want the joints between the
 >strips to be bonded with Sikyflex caulking with no seems as on a boat deck.
 >I was wondering if you could use regular biscuits joiners exteriorly,or
 >would they swell to much more than the teak & create problems as this is a
 >very wet climate,also what is the best epoxy?I thought the biscuits would
 >help keep the planks even as I can't use screws to keep them down to
 >set.Thanks

Hi,

3/4 is a waste of teak, 3/16 laminated to a sheet of ply would be
stick better and be less prone to the joints opening up.

Try test sample using dry teak and do a few heat and moisture cycles
to see what happens.

cheers,
Pete.
 >> Stay informed about: Teak Deck 

Thank You all for the advice,It's a outdoor house deck,& I got the teak the
otherday and it's 2'' wide not 2 3/4''I was told by a store called Fiberteck
to use G-2 Marine epoxy by Industrial formulators.But I do agree on leaving
a gap & caulking.Will let you know how it worked out"Bewert"
wrote in message
 > I'm working on a project in Vancouver BC in which the client wants an
 > exterior deck in which they want 3/4"x2 3/4" solid teak strips epoxies to
2
 > laminated 3/4" shts of Marine plywood. They want the joints between the
 > strips to be bonded with Sikyflex caulking with no seems as on a boat
deck.
 > I was wondering if you could use regular biscuits joiners exteriorly,or
 > would they swell to much more than the teak & create problems as this is a
 > very wet climate,also what is the best epoxy?I thought the biscuits would
 > help keep the planks even as I can't use screws to keep them down to
 > set.Thanks
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Teak Deck 

Just one more question , what do you mean by vacuum bag the teak? thanks
Bill
"Bewert" wrote in message

 > Thank You all for the advice,It's a outdoor house deck,& I got the teak
the
 > otherday and it's 2'' wide not 2 3/4''I was told by a store called
Fiberteck
 > to use G-2 Marine epoxy by Industrial formulators.But I do agree on
leaving
 > a gap & caulking.Will let you know how it worked out"Bewert"

  > > I'm working on a project in Vancouver BC in which the client wants an
  > > exterior deck in which they want 3/4"x2 3/4" solid teak strips epoxies
to
 > 2
  > > laminated 3/4" shts of Marine plywood. They want the joints between the
  > > strips to be bonded with Sikyflex caulking with no seems as on a boat
 > deck.
  > > I was wondering if you could use regular biscuits joiners exteriorly,or
  > > would they swell to much more than the teak & create problems as this is
a
  > > very wet climate,also what is the best epoxy?I thought the biscuits
would
  > > help keep the planks even as I can't use screws to keep them down to
  > > set.Thanks
  > >
  > >
 >
 >
 >> Stay informed about: Teak Deck 

Vacuum bagging is the process of covering the lamination with a series of
bond inhibiting and ventelating fabrics and pressing it in place by a
flexable bag that you pull all the air out of. Produces a very even
pressure over the whole surface.

But I can tell you rignt now that is not the best idea for teak. Things
move as the bag is pulled down and you have no control of how they move.
Better to screw the teak down with screws and flat wahsers until the epoxy
sets. Then remove the screws, counter bore and insert teak plugs in the
holes. Also be sure to wash down the teak with acetone to remove any
surface oils before applying epoxy. The bond will be much better.

Glenn


"Bewert" wrote in message

 > Just one more question , what do you mean by vacuum bag the teak? thanks
 > Bill
 >> Stay informed about: Teak Deck